(Btw, with mylar you can sometimes get away with near-negligible supports for the inside of stencil bits. Or just turn it into a screen.)
@stencil couple of questions. If you don’t mind sharing.
Is this Hobby lobby or from other source? What thickness?
How did you secure to bed?
Settings used please?
I haven’t had a chance to test myself the sheets I got from hobby lobby but this looks very similar.
If you search for “mylar settings” in the Beyond the Manual section (the only place where non-PG settings are allowed), I think there are some posts there that will get you started.
Also, you may want to pick up some repositionable adhesive.
thickness - 0.01
speed - full
power - 50/55
focus - auto
To get more cleaner stencil, I would say 4 mil stencil should work more effectively with GF which i have ordered them here - https://amzn.to/2N0HXew
I will try and post it soon .
Moved to Beyond the Manual for compliance with forum rules re: discussion of non-PG settings.
I really like the font that you chose. Haven’t seen that one before.
Can I use this to screen print a t-shirt? Thanks
Yes, check how : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OCgFA9RJIo
Photo Emulsion Kit (includes emulsion remover) -https://amzn.to/2Nu8HmR
Screen Printing Ink (white) - https://amzn.to/2wZAfpV
Squeegee (multiple sizes) - https://amzn.to/2CD5MEo
Hope this helps
Love the font … and the saying!
I have used .001 Frisket film. Score at speed 250 and power 1 (yes, just 1). It cuts the film and not the backer. That also works for the high tack version. Make cuts at 500/50. It really needs low tack transfer paper or you can rip the film. The adhesive sticks well to textured surfaces. I had to move up to .004 Adhesive Mylar from Stencil Ease using 250/9 score to cut the film. 500/75 for cutting. This is tough enough to be reused and no transfer tape needed.
Thanks so much! I am a newbie!