Wow indeed! Doesn’t look like you need any tips. I’d been trying this but getting flat tops. Going to try again using your inputs. Wow again and thanks!
Agree with the above that you got beautiful results out of this image. One tip I would share if you decide to get into creating your own images (or re-tuning the ones you find), whenever I work with a different material, I print out a calibration piece with greys ranging from 5% - 100% and then have that next to me while I go into the file. I then try to isolate what I want to be a foreground part of the image v. a background part of the image and assign them relative spectrums on the gradient, using Photoshop curves adjustment layers to force them to “fit” within the right groups.
If that’s confusing, an example would be, I would take the dragon’s claw, select it in Photoshop and then use a curves layer to ensure that all the shades of gray within that part of the image stay between (as an example) 5-30% black. Then if I want to push some parts of the image forward into the foreground (or vice versa) I can easily do so.
This is especially useful when you’re starting from an existing image not optimized for engraving, like a photograph, where light and dark are determined by where light falls instead of relative proximity to the viewer. Breaking it into foreground and background images lets you focus your attention one piece at a time, and ensure that each piece ends up being at the “front” or “back” of a relief image as appropriate.
Wow, this is beautiful! Nice job!
Thanks for the kind comments and suggestions.
Wow! Looks exceptional. Definitely saving your notes.
Just curious to know if the forums rules have changed…
Or here: Luggage Tag
The question implied was if they purchased the image and thus got a better resolution. I did not even ask where they got it. I knew it to be one I had seen many times, but not at that resolution.
I certainly never asked for the file, as that is what the rule is against.
I think they were responding to me, probably not understanding my question and thinking I was asking for the file (I wasn’t, I asked for a small section to demonstrate the shading, to expand on the detailed explanation of their process that my post was in response to.)
That file is freely available with a simple Google image search (2300x2300).
I see that now, but the answer is the same for both of us.
I didn’t mind answering the question. It isn’t my file and of course, having a file and actually getting an artwork produced from it are two quite different propositions. Of course, I shared a little on that technique as well, so it’s all good.
On a side note, one thing that was a deciding factor on my purchase of a Glowforge was this active, thriving and helpful community.
FANTASTIC…now lets see if i can do this as well… very cool.
That’s absolutely stunning. Phenomenal work.
It helps that you built me a pretty good machine. Thanks!
I’m possibly a bit dense, but don’t understand what you mean by:
“The trick seems to be laying down an image composed of dots first”…
Or how to go about it.
wow very nice
Looks like I should get tips from you.
I probably could have worded that better. What I was referring to is that I ran the first pass on the piece with the laser set to vary a pattern of dots rather than using the very power setting. This gives the parts of the composition a better shading than the vary power will. Reason being that the lighter parts of the drawing get little or no power during the pass. By laying down the dots first, the shade gives the impression of more depth as subsequent passes are made. If you zoom in on my photos, you can see what I’m referring to.
My Glowforge is on it’s way, I can only dream to be making such beautiful artwork only a few weeks in AWESOME work!
Forgive me if I missed it, but what power and speed settings did you use?