I think @henryhbk is working on that, probably why we haven’t seen much from him.
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If I had a wife I am sure she would tell me the same. Not that it would do her any good. 
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You had me at gummy bears.
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Well we can be your surrogate wife…stay away from anymore kickstarters…lol
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Ok, ok I will. I think I will go find my rock again.
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I’ve had great success with Kickstarter, except the Tiko 3d printer. I got the printer, but its a big failure. Here are a couple videos from 3d printing nerd reviewing the Obsidian.
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I bought one for my grandson, hope he likes it.
Looks like 3D printing nerd said it may be a good buy. We will find out
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Unfortunately I have been sitting shiva on my 2011 17" MacBook Pro, hence my absence… An underpowered linux box is not a great maker box, since I discovered chromium isn’t the same as chrome and can’t run OnShape) and more importantly I don’t have Simplify3D to 3D print with (there are no Cura profiles for the E3D BigBox). My new MBP is currently in shanghai en route…
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To be able to print ligaments. (sorry, “quote” isn’t working on Discourse)
I don’t print the ligaments (I use silicone impregnated power mesh rolled up like a burrito…) makes a pretty realistic ligament for surgical simulation (not functional of course)
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Whoop! I figured you were off prepping somewhere for the MakerFaire. 
(Sorry to hear about your MacBook.)
I can relate. I’m down due to temps. I’m being forced to craft attempts to make a chiller accessory with another laser to enable my GF 
I swear I’ll lick this! Gonna have to or the NYMF is going to be a problem as there’s no cooling in the tents and it’s entirely possible it’ll be hot as hades then.
I’d really love a peek at a Pro - I’m thinking they just mount the Peltier on top of the heat exchanger but I’d like confirmation. Not that it would help a lot since I can’t be sticking my own Peltier cooler on top of the PRU’s heat exchanger but it would give me some hope for eventual success.
I think you would want the Peltier in between the hot and cold sides of the heat exchanger to increase its effect.
Also do we know if it is objecting to ambient temperature or the temperature of the cooling liquid?
We don’t know this yet.
I expect the only way to test this is to leave it in a warm place so the coolant is at 80F and before powering it up (or after powering it down from checking that it’s alerting) to move it into an a/c space where the air temp is 70F(ish). If it alerts again on powering up then it’s the coolant. If it’s fine then it’s the ambient that it’s alerting off of. That’s non-trivial though as it will require hauling the puppy around in an inconvenient way. If I were building this I’d be alerting off the coolant because that’s the critical component - I wouldn’t want a failure of my heat exchanger to cause a tube burn out because I was measuring the air and not the actual tube temp.
I had some success cooling the heat exchanger and then firing it up and running a job but I couldn’t keep it cool. I then tried cooling the inbound air but that didn’t work - I’m assuming because I didn’t have enough of the intake air cooled - I had a 4" slot feeding air into the space between the support rail and the front of the machine but there’s another set of intake holes between the support rail and the back of the machine.
I’ve designed a tray that will slip between the tabletop and the base of the GF (about 3/4" tall) with a slot to allow it to go around the support rail and enclose the full length of the air intake holes. The outside of the tray will extend past the side of the machine a couple of inches and I can dump cold air in the tray and control just about all of the air making it into the heat exchanger. It should be like putting the machine on top of a box of ice that the air has to come through but the box will be offset to the side.
I’ve got to cut that out with the Redsail and put it together before I’ll know if it works. Because it’s a PRU I can’t do any modifications to the machine or do something that will harm it so things like adding a Peltier to the inside is off the table although I would think that may be the real solution long term for Basic users - ganging 3 commercially available Peltiers along the length of the exchanger should provide an in-the-box solution. Or ganging them on the chiller tray so the cold side is pushing air into the tray to go into the GF would work as well. You can usually get 20-30F differentials between the hot side and cold side pretty easily & relatively cheaply (<$100).
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Yes that is what I would expect but if GFs are refusing even to start when the coolant is at ambient then that means they are trying to keep the coolant below 75F, which would be totally impractical or they are also measuring ambient.
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It starts and it runs through the homing & calibration sequence and then it alerts with the temperature warning. The message isn’t technically correct - it says it will be adding a cooldown period but had to cancel the print. Same message you get if it alerts after a job (I haven’t had it actually stop a job - the message pops after the job is finished if it doesn’t come up on startup).
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I’ve got a 105 degree delivery truck on the way and a 78 degree ambient. That solves having to move a GF around 
but the thermal mass in the unit might keep radiating heat onto an ambient sensor. I already anticipate needing to let the unit cool down before it will even run the setup procedure.
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Last year was fairly chilly…
Year before was hot under there (I was eNabling). It’s always a crap shoot. Fall in New England 
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So basically a heated enclosure to work in? Good for filament…
Yep, indian summer is always fun…
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