Proofgrade cut settings are a bit too fast

I’ve talked with a few people who say the same thing.

All proofgrade cut settings need to be lowered at least 7 speed to cut thru.

Can this be updated?

I experience no such issue with :proofgrade: materials which suggests this is not a global issue.

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Top two reasons for this:

Dirty optics and not completely flat.


Afraid I have to disagree as well…if the material is pinned down completely flat, the Proofgrade settings are just right to get through the material and masking and leave the smallest (least invasive) kerf.

My cuts don’t ever fail to make it through these days. (Try the honeycomb pins.) :slightly_smiling_face:


In addition to what @jules said…

Be sure your crumb tray is properly seated with no debris under its feet.

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Do the Proofgrade settings compensate for Basic/Plus vs Pro on full power? I’ve been curious so it seems like a good time to ask!

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Not on mine as long as the stuff is flat (I use magnets).

I’ve had clean cuts w/ proofgrade materials & their settings when the material is flat. Sometimes the masking on some boards isn’t trimmed well, and it can interfere with an edge laying flat properly on the honeycomb of the bed.

Humidity can mess with the material flatness–can help to weight the material down for a while before using to minimize magnets, too.

Yes. The Pro settings are 20% faster (on full power) than the Basic settings.


Thanks. I figured as much but you never know. :wink:

That’s true. You have to keep an eye on the edges of the masking on the backside. I have had a few ones where it curls and doesn’t lay flat. It’s not uncommon to have it not stuck down 100% on the edges. It’s also often trimmed a bit long so the sheet won’t butt square against the edge of the bed tray.

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this was from the beginning.

and again, I am not the only one.

I’d prefer guaranteed cutout rather than “just enough”. If slowing down 7 speed can do that, why not?

Makes the kerf a lot sloppier. Parts don’t fit together as tightly.


I always cringe when I see that kind of statement.

Hopefully you opening this ticket will get the GF team to look at your machine logs and make adjustments locally for you.

As @Jules noted, that would make the kerfs and cuts uglier for the machines that are working fine.


This is why I don’t use PG settings for anything. If GF gets crazy and changes things I’d have to throw out what I know.

Of course I also never use PG materials, so…


Thanks for reaching out. I’m sorry you’re having trouble with your prints on Proofgrade material.

Do you have an example of a print that didn’t cut through? If so, can you please let me know the date and time of the print so I can investigate?

To cut successfully, there are three important things to check. First, your material must lie flat. This requires a clean, properly installed crumb tray and flat materials. Second, there must be no obstructions, dirt, or damage preventing the laser light from reaching your material. Third, your design must be set up properly - for example, with lines that are fully on the material and that are set to cut. It’s hard to know which issue might be affecting your print, but if you follow the instructions in the [cut-through troubleshooter](, we’ll be able to get to the bottom of it. I realize there might be things listed here that you’ve already tried, so if you find something you’ve already done, just skip it and move on to the next step.

Once you’ve inspected and cleaned, please try another print. We included an extra piece of Proofgrade Draftboard with your materials shipment for troubleshooting. Please print the Gift of Good Measure on that Proofgrade Draftboard and let me know the result. If it doesn’t print well, please let me know the date and time of your print and send photos of the front and back of the print. This test print will help me determine the cause of the issue and find the right solution for you.

Thanks in advance,

I do not. I use it every day and no time to track that stuff. But I started using manual settings for cuts.

I learned from others that 100 precision power is not full power. That’s interesting.

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That’s a generous way to phrase it. :wink:

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I expect that’s why the slider & settings shows 100 as different than Full Power. Otherwise there’s no conceivable reason for there to be both 100 & Full as separate settings

The 0-100 scale is not a percentage. It’s an arbitrary scale that delivers the same power on either Basic or Pro. Pro Full is 45W and Basic Full is 40W delivered.


I really dislike the non absolute numbers. I come from a cnc background. I know ipm and can get used to mm/m or mm/s if I have to. But nonsense scale numbers just don’t help someone like me.

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