Yep, that’s a Leur lock 18ga 1" or 1.5" needle. Used one yesterday on a patient…
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Another tool added to the arsenal.
Just as a note, the ones they sell on the bottle are blunted. If you use a real needle you might want to sand the tip down a bit… DAMHIK
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Blunt or stub luer needles are available in some sizes
McMaster-Carr sells a wide variety of syringe needles, both in size and format:
They also sell small squeeze bottles that should be pretty nice for applying acrylic cement.
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Thank you! You just answered a question I would have had down the line. 
I also got a catalogue from where to source syringe bottles, they are very comfortable to use. Let me getbthat when I’m off shift.
Make sure you get normal lids as well as the syringe lids. Taking the syringe off and cleaning it out between uses is very sage advice. Mine is constantly clogged since I have no other lid and don’t want to empty my bottle every time I use it.
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yes, the solvent will still evaporate through the needle, so you will need a regular top unless you just fill enough for the current need.
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Stick a cork on it. 
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We use paper needles that lock onto a syringe where I work. They’re a waxed paper, like Dixie cup material. Don’t know if they would work, or what sizes they come in, but they’re safe.
I know this is late to the conversation but I’m working my way through the entire forum message base (can you say “too much time on my hands”? - or “procrastination because I don’t want to do what I should be doing?” 
)
At any rate, one way to speed the dissolving of acrylic in acetone - whether to make a glue for bonding or to help mate parts is to heat up the acetone. I use this technique a lot for my 3D printing work (although I do it in a closed container to trap the warmed & evaporating fumes to smooth the lines between the layers of ABS). I put my acetone container (bowl, jar, whatever) on a small food warming tray. Or if you’re doing a lot, a crockpot that’s dedicated to this works well too.
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I went with weld-on//sci grip #4 ultimately, and would recommend the same to others. It is worth the price for the effect it has in bonding.
Allowed me to easily put these together:
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Thats what I’ve been using and its worked great as soon as I got the bottle technique down.
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Its a… Maze for tiny mouse experiments?
Whatever it is, it seems very nice.
Actually it is a tabletop role playing game basic terrain tileset. A randomizable new dungeon for each playing session. Its like steroids for board games but without the legal and ethical questioning, lol.
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Oh cool, that sounds awesome!
I have more pictures up on www.sawatg.com
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Just did a search on the forum and found this thread. Just read throigh it.
I’m working on a project and need to join 2 large cut acrylic pieces flat, edge to edge, to make a larger ‘sheet’ from pieces i cut on the 
. Ive never done this before, so i figured i would check here for some advice from you experts.
Seems like weld-on 4 is the preferred method, using a syringe to apply.
What surface should I do this on, or what can I put under it to protect my desk or table?
Should I apply it to one edge first, and then push them together, or apply when pushed together along the top edge and it will seep into the joint with gravity and a capillary action? Or both?
If I leave the masking on the proofgrade acrylic will that help protect the ‘Front and back’ of the finished piece (no marking or melting or whatever to the surface), or is that going to mess it all up and I should do it without the masking? Then you can just wipe it off the top surface i assume? What about the bottom surface, if it leaks under?
Thanks in advance!
- R
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Danger Will Robinson! Danger!
No idea what you can put underneath it to keep it from running out all over the table, because I get into life-and-death struggles with the stuff. Maybe a rubber bath mat would work.
It’s thinner than water, you have to carefully apply a very tiny single drop along the edge and let capillary action suck it down into the crack without touching or bumping it in any way. Syringes are impossible to manipulate with a fine enough motor control - you will squirt it instead of just touching it to the acrylic edge. It runs out underneath if you have the object taped together and eats the acrylic under the tape. It doesn’t fully cure until overnight and then the material is truly bonded. Hopefully in the correct position, because at that point, you’re committed.
It will drip and spread and run, both top and bottom. Where it does, you will see blurry spots on the acrylic, even if you do not touch it. Do NOT try to wipe it off. Then you will get a freaking pattern in the acrylic, in the shape of your thumbprint. Don’t get solvent on your hands and then touch the acrylic anywhere.
It is horrible, horrible stuff.
But there is hope…
Buy Novus Plastic Polish. You can actually use that, with a lot of elbow grease, to polish out all of the mistakes that you made and save the piece.
Good luck.
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