Now, if in the future you want to make stamps with really thin lines, keep in mind that you would need to create a greyscale image with a ramp to white (unengraved surface) so the base of the figure (next to the engraved area) would have some support. Otherwise the thin parts would wiggle when you tried to stamp them. I hope this makes sense.
It totally does. I’ve actually used the exact same technique to create what you just described. I didn’t post it here because it has a lot of personal detail, but it’s done without the type of gradient support you describe. If it wobbles when I stamp, I’ll try the greyscale ramp you’re describing and update the post. Based on Leahgee2’s input above, it may be that I don’t need to cut quite so deep as well. Nothing teaches so well as failure :^)
And for those who want to learn from other people’s experience as well, I’ve linked to posts below. Note that settings in earlier posts may not be applicable because of changes to the power settings over time. (Links to ‘Beyond the Manual’ do not display the same way as links to ‘MOAG’.)
In testing my real stamp (the one with all my personal details on it), I found it did wobble a little, but with even pressure it worked very well. That said, I’m going to cut another this weekend with the font bolded so the letters themselves are thicker. With this particular rubber anyway, I do not feel the gradient support is necessary. Your mileage may vary.
Well done! Just received my Glowforge recently and am interested in making some rubber stamps. What is the best design software for rubber stamps. Are there any tutorials available to help me get started?
And used the settings he mentioned, worked perfectly.
For the engrave and cut I did two passes ! (the cut just to make sure) or you can try reducing the speed of the cutting part.
I see that though it’s Chinese origin, they say item location is GB, and a delivery in three days.
Is that your experience, with a quick delivery ? I’m assuming your UK based because of the link !
John