Maybe you could ship laser-safe lenses with the Pro and include a pattern for cutting the frames a la @marmak3261’s glasses 
(Doubt the FNL’s would approve though…)
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The challenge is of course is your test rig more accurate than whatever current meter they would use? There is no reason to assume that sensors they get are more or less accurate than whatever you use, or at least within the precision needed. So let’s say you have some industrial fluke current meter that costs a bundle and is accurate to +/- 0.01% while theirs is accurate to +/- 0.1% or even 1%… Well if we are drawing 4A, those percentages barely make a difference to anything that we are doing. And how calibrated is your test rig? Do you have some incredibly accurate reference source to confirm which error is the “right” error? Of course you may have all that, but not sure the difference is significant anyway.
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@dan mentioned at one point that they used very expensive laser power meters that were much better than the ~$100 meters like the one Russ (Sarbar Multimedia on YouTube) uses. I bought one of those before seeing Dan’s comment with the hopes of using it as a crude diagnostic tool, probably as a rough gauge of tube output with age.
Ah, here it is:
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I give you that there’s degrees of warranted skepticism. I didn’t mean to suggest sub-hundredth of a percentage accuracy (although, I actually do have a better than average Fluke 287 
but even it’s only 0.05%).
I was most just wishing there would be some simple way for tap in and verify it first-hand, perhaps through documented test pads, rather than having to fire email to support on a Friday and sit around all weekend, only to find out you might have done a bad job reconnecting a replacement tube and not fried the PSU altogether.
Oh, yeah, there should totally be an API (even if it is through their interface) where we can access some trouble shooting numbers.
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The tube current is only 10’s of mA so a clamp is not going to be very accurate at all. My guess would be that there is a shunt resistor in the cathode circuit and that goes to an ADC to allow the controller to measure the current. You still need to know the anode voltage to calculate the power and that is only the power in, power out can only be inferred with electrical measurements.
Measuring 20 odd kV is tricky. I have an ancient EHT meter my dad made in the 1970’s for checking TVs. It has several special high voltage resistors that are about 2" long and screw end to end inside a plastic tube.
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No, but it’s easy to create a vanishingly short line segment at a slow speed that has the same effect.
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FYI - Never operate a glowforge with beer goggles. 
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I believe this qualifies as safety advice. Please refrain 
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