I’m looking for some material or product to do what the paper covers on the proofgrade material does, but for my own cutting stock. Any suggestions?
Update and clarification:
I am trying to precisely cut out images from my inkjet printer that I have laminated on 3mm birch plywood with elmers glue. To protect the images I tried wide masking tape, and it bonded to the inkjet print and for some reason required 3 passes to burn through completely.
I think the laminating glue was not completely dry because I just tried my experiment again 2 days later with a light coat of 3m spray adhesive on copy paper as a cover sheet (instead of the tape), and it burned through just fine with one pass and the cover peeled off easily with nearly no residue from burning or glue.
Im wondering what would happen with just a light coat of spray glue on copy paper, just stuck to the wood without pressing it down too much. When I get some spray glue I will try it. Another option might be to try ironing waxed paper onto the wood.
I just bought the medium tack one mentioned earlier - 12"x100yards. With a 10% discount and including shipping it was just under $42. So very, very comparable pricing. Which leads me to believe it’s probably a pretty fair price.
I think your biggest risk will be that the glue will adhere to the wood more than the paper. The worst outcome would be to get adhesive on your unfinished hardwoods, it wouldn’t be easy to sand off. The transfer paper are specifically designed with adhesive that is just so, and it never seems to leave any residue.
Also, the tape is tougher than copy paper, which means it doesn’t rip when you take it off, and probably has more flashback protection than copy paper would. (granted, it won’t stop serious flashback, but if you have your settings pretty well dialed in, it stops it pretty well.)
I think this may be one of those cases where you’d be going broke saving money… the labor and risks of losing materials probably way offset your potential gains. One nice big exotic hardwood project ruined by janky masking technique would be an easy 20+$ in materials.
You might be able to do it, I just don’t think I’d bother. The time saving alone is worth it to me.
fwiw, that’s 100ft of 12"for $25 shipped. the transferrite ends up being low $40s for 300 ft. if you don’t need much, no biggie, but per SF, the transferrite stuff is significantly cheaper ($0.15/sf vs $0.25/sf).
Do you know how this one you use compares to the 592U from USCutter? I’ve been using the 592U but find that 1) I have to double mask almost everything, 2) sometimes it does not adhere well enough to the birch wood and it comes off mid print ruining it with burn marks. Any ideas?
I’ve been using the 592U but find that 1) I have to double mask almost everything, 2) sometimes it does not adhere well enough to the birch wood and it comes off mid print ruining it with burn marks. How does Glowforge do it on their proof grade stuff? It sticks very well to the materia and I’ve not been able to get the 592U to work as well. It works well maybe most of the time but too often its just not good enough…
Nancie below says she uses the PerfectTear plus Medium tack. Has anyone use both and have an opinion as to what works better?
The best advice I can give is to lightly sand the plywood and blow/brush off all the dust. Apply the transfer paper by pressing the center and working outward to the edges. Be sure to use a hard-but-flexible scraper to press the film into the wood, again working from the middle of the sheet out to the edges with firm, steady strokes. Once complete, place on a completely flat surface and cover with extra plywood (or PG) and weight it down evenly. My best results are after leaving it to press for at least a few hours or overnight at room temp.