7mm tightly spaced corrugation.
Oh wow, I hope thatās gone some ways toward settling your panic these last few days.
Thatās going to be awesome! (You working on your game, or is that the next project?)
Just tested with clear glass and this unit worked fine. Though honestly there is no way for me to know whether it focused on the glass or on the crumb tray underneath. Or whether your machine is using a different S/W version.
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Didnāt I read here, or in some other forum that damp paper over the glass is supposed to reduce the fracturing of the glass a bit. That could also cure any focus problems
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Possibly. I donāt know for sure that there is a focus problem. Not saying that there isnāt, just havenāt experienced it. If @Sawa gets about a week with the unit and is able to confirm this works and this doesnāt then weāll know. I canāt count the number of times I had a problem with the Pre-Release that turned out to be me.
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That was definitely in the Glowforge forums. Iāve asked about the same myself. I was advised damp paper towel or dish soap, diffusing some of the heat against fracturing, opaques enough for focus AND is reasonably easy to clean.
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I set the focal depth at .100 (itās 3/32)and said material was total thickness is .125, had some thicker card stock paperā¦ All I had on hand. The picture itself may not be the best for engraving, was just primarily doing a capability test.
The project wasnāt game related, just something nice to look at.
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That posits an interesting question. Does autofocus use a visible wavelength to obtain its depth sense, or is it using something that cannot see through glass and other clear materialsā¦ @dan?
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The issues Iāve experienced using the Glowforge have been chair to keyboard errors. The pre-release machine I have works like it should. My issues stem from my unfamiliarity with Illustrator.
The good news is that as my knowledge and use of Illustrator improves so do my prints. Yay!
It also helps that with Proofgrade I donāt need to try to figure out laser settings for each operation (e.g., cut, engrave, or score) in a print. Itās just drop in the Proofgrade and hit the print button ā itās fantastic! BIG THANKS to the person(s) who came up with this idea.
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Yes, for large areas. If the glass gets too hot in a concentrated area it can break. For outlines and light engraving I havenāt found it necessary.
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I think the lowest frequency LED lasers are near IR, so they wonāt see optically transparent materials very well as not much different from red.
OK,
This is a question that is probably crazy, but could you possibly put a piece of glass over yardstick or fabric, then focus past that to get a cut without bits blowing all over?
Crazy, or Genius?
Smart People Discuss: AND GO - - -
PS, Iām pretty sure this would have been thought of before if it had any chance of working, but what the heck?
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Well you know with this group someone is going to take a shot at itā¦thatās like dangling a tuna in front of a starving kitten. 
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Thatās why I went here. There are Crazies and Geniuses here. I venture to guess that many are both!
And, if the proposal is as crazy as I think it is, I donāt think I will be ridiculed as much as I would be on some of the other forums and user groups.
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No. Glass over top paper. Glass etched very well. No noticeable mark on paper.
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Dang! Quicker than I even expected! 
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That was a stupid suggestion. 
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Ha,Ha,Ha. Wow, out of likes already today - or carryover from late last night.
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The masking paper did a fine job for me the other nightā¦ For power mesh fabric that is.
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