Type of Glue for Maple Plywood

I have been building some projects and have run into a problem gluing the proof grade plywood. I have been using Tite Bond wood glue and it doesn’t seem to stick well to the finish on the Maple proof grade plywood. I am sure all the plywoods have the same glossy finish. I glued two parts surface to surface, clamped them and after a few hours the parts would still snap apart. Anyone suggest the best glue to use.
Thank you,
Buddy

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It can be tough to bond finished woods since you’re gluing the finishes rather than the wood. Somebody else probably has a great answer for you. Personally, I laser-score the woods I want to join so that I’m gluing the woods and not the finish. And by “score” I don’t necessarily mean I use the Score cut type. Although, I’m betting it would work very well. Just haven’t tried it. What I do, instead, is just draw a bunch of random squiggly lines in Illustrator as a bitmap, then size and engrave them into whatever I want to glue. That can give the glue something to hold onto.

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That pretty much covers it. The finish on Proofgrade materials is not conducive to adhesive unless removed mechanically first.

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For finished surface to finished surface something meant for plastics - unfortunately this means solvent based - something like E6000, epoxy or contact cement depending on the coverage area needed. Even with those, sanding or scuffing the mating surfaces is always recommended.

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Thank you for your reply and info. I will try E6000, but will probably change the design to use a different material.

Buddy

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I guess I will have to change my choice of material.
Thank you for reply

Thank you, I may try the score method in the glued areas.

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Sand the areas to be glued.

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I will try sanding, but I think the real solution is to change to some Baltic birch plywood. The proof grade plywood is beautiful but not practical for the projects I am building. Thanks for the input

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The question is what is easier finishing the wood or removing some of the finish. By designing many interlocking fingers, any glue is holding the interlock in place with cut-face on cut-face and that is in addition to the main strength of the fingers themselves.

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Interlocking fingers is not an option for my planned projects. Mostly toy cars, trucks, and planes. I just figured the proof grade plywood would have a sheet of unfinished hardwood veneer on the outside, My projects will mostly be painted. You learn as you go along. I was afraid to touch anything inside the machine, mirrors, lenses etc. But tomorrow I’m going to do my first thorough cleaning. I love the machine. If does everything I ask it to do. Thanks for all the support I get from the community. One of main reasons I bought a Glowforge.

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I can relate to that. I strongly dislike the look of tab/finger corners. Makes projects look hobbled together.

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Makes me think in terms of Quions (pronounced like coins)

such as you see of the corners of major buildings.
Quality boxes usually have such hand-carved corners as well.

But not for cars, I would agree, but that makes other problems with compound curves.

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“But tomorrow I’m going to do my first thorough cleaning.” Please be careful of a ‘thorough’ cleaning as this is what causes so many people problems afterwards!!

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I understand. I will take it easy
Thanks

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