I don’t know that I really have any practical advice. I haven’t had the need to kerf adjust anything at all yet. For the puzzles, it’s impractical (understatement) to try and kerf adjust them, since you’d have to design the puzzle and then explode the underlying image to correspond with the puzzle and I think that would be a nightmare.
Cutting wood or thick chipboard puzzles (.08 chipboard - .09” with paper), I modified my initial approach from a full power cut at the necessary speed, to a 2 pass approach (3 for 1/4” Baltic birch) at faster speeds and 100 precision power. I tested the faster speeds until the job length came out to about the same as a single pass at the slower speed.
Cutting at 100 (lower power) will effectively reduce kerf (smaller beam profile, less material removed as measured across the gap), and create a tighter fit than at full power (it also does less damage to the photo paper - I cut image side up).
One thing I started doing is engraving/marking spoken quotes, literary quotes, etc onto the backs of certain puzzle pieces. For this, I reverse the puzzle piece and cut the shapes out of a jig and then place the pieces in it face side down. Usually, I have to gently push the pieces out when I’m done engraving because of the friction fit.
It’s not perfect, but it’s good enough for me…