Yeti tumbler

Beyond the Manual
4

Thanks for the sarcastic answers. Wasn’t sure if it was possible to do it with the crumb tray out.

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@Jules wasn’t being sarcastic, people have done this!

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Yes, they have. (Didn’t say it was the best use of this investment, but there you have it.)

No.

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I think you’ll find that people are way nicer here than most other forums, sarcasm isn’t generally the tone that we strike. Your response was the most sarcastic part! :slight_smile: I don’t blame you, most forums like this are filled with jerks.

Anyway, chopping out the base is definitely doable but what I’d call an extreme modification.

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BUT you can make a cork or leather cup sleeve
or use one of these:

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Here it is.

Chop away if you’re brave.

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The few times that I have asked for help, I have gotten a great response. Reading responses can sometimes get misconstrued.

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You can also buy laser safe masking for sand blasting. Then you get to buy a sand blaster.

You could probably do the same for chemical etching, but then you just get rubber gloves and chemicals and no sand blaster :frowning:

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Or cut the tumbler in half :wink:

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*Tumbler may not hold liquid after this method is utilized

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:rofl:

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Maximum with the tray out is specified to be 2" - that’s why someone cut the bottom out… :grimacing:

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Or you can cut yourself a stencil and air brush the tumbler.

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Aren’t they generally stainless steel? I was under the impression stainless was difficult to paint. Far from a paint expert.

I have a small air compressor and a simple air brush is on the list. But it is a long list. :unamused:

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I have some glass etching materials. I may try that and see if it works. :thinking:

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Just make sure the resists are laser safe. Many are meant to be cut on drag cutters and are made from a chlorine containing vinyl.

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My wife and I did 3 Yeti tumblers (knock-offs actually) the day before yesterday. It’s the thing we take the bottom of our Glowforge out for most often! We’ve given away about 40 of them at this point.

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What settings did she use?

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I never tried painting stainless either but this is what I found:

Cleaning

Preparation is critical to promoting adequate paint adhesion. Stainless steel should be washed with a water-based degreasing agent before the application process begins. Soap and degreasers must be thoroughly rinsed, as they can interfere with adhesion.

Abrasion

Before any paint is applied, stainless steel should be coated in a galvanized metal-etching primer, using a paintbrush manufactured for latex paints. After the primer cures for 4 to 6 hours, painting can begin.

Paint

Although virtually any type of paint will bond to a properly prepared stainless-steel surface, a two-part epoxy paint is the preferred coating. It provides durability and an attractive sheen.

Application

Because stainless steel is so slick, professional painters often dilute the paint with 1 ounce of water to every gallon of paint. This helps promote a smooth, professional-looking finish, free of unattractive brushstrokes.

Warnings

Stainless steel should never be painted unless it has first been abraded with a galvanized metal-etching primer. No other type of primer will promote adequate adhesion. Never paint over an unprimed stainless-steel surface, or the finish will chip and peel soon after application.

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Its pretty forgiving, since it’s steel under the paint. The power level depends on the paint thickness. Start at 500 speed, full power. If it doesn’t burn through, run it again. I have tried the slowest speed at full and found it warped the steel bottle because of thermal expansion! So start slow and ramp up.

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