Box-o-matic Laser Cut boxes of any size

#1

So I’ve had to make a bunch of interlocking laser-cut boxes n containers by hand. Much to my delight and dismay I came across the free Box-o-matic app on my iPhone and you can put in whatever dimensions you want with inserts n things and export it directly to… pretty much wherever.

http://getboxomatic.com/

So try it out, and we can all laugh/mourn over the hours spent trying to get our boxes to interlock properly…

27 Likes
#2

Welcome.
Here is another site used by many here on the forum. https://www.festi.info/boxes.py/

8 Likes
#3

I love this app! I’ve created D&D dice boxes, trinket boxes and card boxes with it so far. Makes my life so much easier!

#4

Yes, I’m a big fan of Box-o-matic- use it all the time!

#5

Previously, on As The Box Turns…

5 Likes
#6

I try the app for the first time and did a box with lid, everything was looking good but at the end when I put the box together all of the corners are not flush. I’m not sure what i did wrong, and the lid doesn’t fit i think because of the way the box doesn’t snap flush.! Any recommendation? thanks
IMG_1118|666x500

IMG_1119
IMG_1119.jpg3024×4032 1.91 MB

#7

Your material thickness was incorrect. Were you entering inches when it wanted mm? Vice Versa?

The length of the tabs is set by the material thickness parameter.

#8

Two things likely happened here. Looks like you used draft board. If you used medium proofgrade, the thickness should be ok at 0.125". The next thing that makes a difference is the kerf. For draft board I use .005". If you use different draftboard or different kind of wood, both these values will be different. You can test it buy cutting a 1" square and carefully measuring afterwards how much got burned away.

2 Likes
#9

ok thanks yes the thickness was in 0.125 but my kerf was in .008

#10

.008 is good for proofgrade maple and basswood ply.

#11

got it thanks

1 Like
#12

.008" is usually what I call “hammer tight”. I rarely go that tight lately, I find that 006 or even 005 is ideal to give you a little friction so you can assemble and glue them up. The problem with .008 is that if you make the slightest mistake, you’re sunk. I find I have more success if I back off a bit.

6 Likes
#13

Is there an android version of this?

1 Like
#14

image
594B9BE9-133B-4D52-9F6C-CC8EE6854DD9.jpeg2448×2448 1.55 MB
image
48505B27-898A-4F15-82C8-8785CD9F9E2C.jpeg2448×3264 1.71 MB
image
05199326-B4EC-4247-9C10-1C4F0BBB044C.jpeg1440×1440 346 KB
image
8F1044DF-BC54-4BD9-BA11-1A0AE53CE181.jpeg1440×1440 365 KB

It is a tight fit which can be a little aggravating putting together. I use a wood mallet and a bastard file to assemble mines carefully and it doesn’t need any glue when complete so the tight fit works to my advantage. I also use an600 grit sandpaper to slightly open up the joint spaces so they fit a little easier.

7 Likes
#15

Sure! I would do 3 things

  1. Check the ‘kern’ setting
  2. If it’s super humid in your area (like it is for me, I’d put them together immediately after cutting.) If I let them sit and absorb moisture from the air I have the same problem
  3. If you have a program you can drop the linework in, you can match up the sides to the center piece and have it so there’s only 1 set of rectangled lines which will be guaranteed to have at least SOME space since the laser is cutting through.
#16

I assume this was a typo? As kern is a typographical term and kerf is the term associated with measuring pieces to achieve tight joinery.

#17

Correct, my apologies

#18

it seems that the app lacks the dividers functionality at the moment right? or am I doing something wrong… ?

#19

There was a link dropped on the thread that has a divider function, this one is not that advanced

1 Like