Camera Calibration Community Discussion Thread

Probably not. You can test it to see if it worked. It may have. If not, clean the camera, remask the material and try again.

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Two layers makes it pretty much clear. I hope to test that tonight so fingers crossed!

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I want to say thank you for all the hard work that I know had to have gone into getting the camera calibration working.

In the beginning, the alignment was terrible. Then I created jigs, and learned how to create scored alignment marks, which made things better. Eventually I got snapmarks on my account, and things got a little MORE better. Then came camera calibration.

I ignored it until I finished the project I was working on. Then I ran it, and immediately tried another cut piece. It was no better than before. I tried the camera calibration again, followed by another cut piece. Still no better. By then it was late, and I threw up my hands in frustration and walked away, thinking at least I knew how to use the method Iā€™d been using. A day or two later, I threw a project up, and cut it, positioning it like Iā€™d been doing before. And Lo, there on the screen, the project and the cut lined up (almost) perfectly, certainly much MUCH better than it ever had before.

Now I can line things up much closer to the edge of the proofgrade, knowing it wonā€™t cut off the edge. Iā€™m making much better use of the plywood sheets that I have, far less unusable scrap.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

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@dan now is the time to start offering service parts for sale

All fans
Belts
Laser tube

Peopleā€™s fans are starting to die out of warranty. You are missing out on income by not offering them.

I work in the mining equipment industry. Aftermarket parts can bring in more money than the equipment sales per year.

This helps you and your customers.

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I finally hooked up my Glowforge this week (Iā€™ve had it for over a year, but Iā€™ve been unable to use it, as the air filter still hasnā€™t shipped and my workshop has no vents to the outside. I finally knocked out part of a glass block window to make a hole for the exhaust duct).

The alignment was significantly off out of the box, to the point that I had to completely reprint my first two sheets. I ran the Camera Calibrator, power cycled, messed with Set Focus, verified level surface, and have followed every other calibration troubleshooting suggestion I can find on the forums. When I last ran the camera accuracy test it seems to have shifted to being off in the opposite direction, but is still pretty far out of alignment:

calibrationtest
Does anyone have any other suggestions? Iā€™m trying to use the trace feature to cut around some artwork, and so far each print is just chewing up material and producing unusable pieces.

Congratulations on finally breaking it out of the box! :+1:

Youā€™re going to have much better luck using the Trace function to capture an image of your artwork and turning it into an engrave on wood that you can then cut out around. Without the Snapmarks, (which havenā€™t been released yet), there is no fiducial marker on your drawing that can be used to line up the cuts accurately around something that is drawn by hand or pre-printed on an inkjet printer.

If you do want to do a ā€œPrint and Cutā€ style file now, youā€™ll need to use the method outlined by @cynd11 here:

(*Unless your machine had Snapmarks assigned to it during the Beta test and you were never aware of it, in which case you can read about how to work with them here.)

I believe your alignment is off by more than 1/4", so please email support about it.

I just wanted to thank you guys. This camera calibration process is simply amazing. Its like i have a new machine. Better than new! Its 100x more accurate now than it was out of the box, and now i can complete a whole list of projects that i have been putting off due to alignment. I canā€™t even imagine all the hard work thatā€™s gone into this, but it was time well spent. Unbelievably happy customer here!

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So what do I do about having the same problem as others where the machine goes through the process and gets done and says process was interrupted and no changes were made?

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Same issue. Tried 4 times, 4 times I failed after measurement. :frowning:

@dan Hopefully you can help. I have been through the process four times and it keeps saying
" Not Completed

The process was interrupted, so no changes were made to your calibration."

I completes the measuring and then starts to calculate and then does the error about.

I think you probably should post to Problems and Support so the support team can look at your issue. I donā€™t think theyā€™re monitoring this thread. :slight_smile:

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Indeed, P&S will be the best place to get help - theyā€™re more qualified to do so than I!

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I just ran the calibration process and couldnā€™t be happier. My machine was never very far off to begin with but now itā€™s almost perfect!


That was the top left corner. Used to be about 1/4ā€ off there.

Thanks @dan and GF crew!!

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I had the calibration fail twice but I noticed when it happened to me there was sunlight shining in through the window into my Glowforge. After the second fail, I laid a towel over the lid of the machine and it did the calibration fine that time. Iā€™ve heard that excessive light shining in can mess it up.

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You are absolutely right. I was driving nuts calibrating my machine and received ā€œThe process was interrupted, so no changes were made to your calibration.ā€ all the time (4 times in total). I have closed the blinds, and succeeded. I guess most people, who do not succeed, operate their machine next to a window (due to the fume hose). I have also powered off my LED lighting in the room in order to avoid any further interference.

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Based on the feedback from this thread, weā€™ve added instructions to make sure there isnā€™t direct light hitting the bed. THANK YOU for the feedback and advice! Itā€™s made things better for everyone!

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Glad I could help. Now we need some better ways of cleaning the exhaust fan, could you guys have came up with a worse design? If a person were to cut the honeycomb away thatā€™s in front of the fan looking from the back, would that affect the warranty?

Not great, but I think it was worse when I did the ruler.

On a similar note, should the corners be as blurry as they are? I have a feeling itā€™s the reason why it couldnā€™t identify the proof grade draftboard I used to make the ruler last night.

So, the one screenshot: I see your set focus is in the very center and the center alignment mark appears to be dead on.

The way it works is set focus measures at a pretty specific area and thatā€™s where the calibration is going to be as good as it gets.

A number of variables can alter the accuracy of the overlay as you get away from the set focus area. Crumbtray manufacturing tolerances, crumbtrays that have been used a lot and may have a bit of deformity, machine levelness/flatness, case being twisted slightly, material warp, etc.

I would run a few more tests. Put the target at top left, set focus on the top left and see how close the alignment mark is. Repeat for the LL, LR, and TR with set focus in each of those areas.

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