Camera recalibration

very frustrating, trying to do camera recalibration, going on for few hours now. After printing test it says lost wifi connection, I did 4 times then finally I connected to my hotspot and now its saying offline. very frustrating

The calibration is very data heavy - some folks have only been able to succeed connected to a hotspot. You say you connected, but it’s saying offline - did it ever say online - or have you not yet connected successfully? Depending on your answer I, or another owner, will try to help out!

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I was able to start the process again and again it said lost wifi, Not sure why cause I am connected to my hotspot

Welcome to the forum.
The lid camera calibration is a long process that often results in no change to the Glowforge. How far off is your camera alignment and can you proceed with making things without the calibration for now?

After the second time performing the camera calibration, I did a test to see if alignment was good, and it was a sucess, but when I tried to do a cut job it wasn’t a sucess. It didn’t even cut halfway through the wood.
I did a camera calibration few months ago and I had no problem with it

The alignment of the camera will have no bearing on whether or not the laser will cut through your material. That is a function of focus depth, speed and power.


My guess is that you didn’t get a good cut because of the material. As stated above, the lid camera will not impact your cuts.

I’ve been using the same settings and had to problem until this morning after trying to calibrate.
After researching why glowforge not cutting, it said lens or window are dirty. I cleaned lens and window. Is there anything else I need to do ?

I will cut another type of material and see if it works. Thanks.

What material are you using? All of the optics must be clean - the side window inside on the left side of the machine, the printhead window on the side of the printhead, the lens, the mirror and the two little windows on the underside of the printhead. The material must also be held flat and the air assist fan should be clean.

I am using birch, this is only material I have been using other than acylic, (proofgrade).
I cleaned the side windows, and lens, I also cleaned it after it didn’t cut.

I’m doing a test cut right now on medium draft board.

Did few test cuts on draft board, acrylic and another type of wood. All cuts were good. Not sure why my birch didn’t cut. Will adjust settings for that one next time around.
Thank you all for your help. Appreciate it.

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Have you cleaned the window under the left side over the rail as well as the one on the left side of the head? Have you cleaned the mirror inside the head and the two other lenses on the bottom of the head? Also, have you removed and cleaned the lens inside the head and insured you replaced it cup side up?

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Yes, I have cleaned all.

Ok, that’s good. Is this material proof grade? Can you see the smoke being blown forward from the laser beam (proving the air assist fan is clearing it out of the way)?

It is not proof grade wood purchase from Home Depot.
Yes, I can see the smoke.

Store-bought birch plywood (or other types of ply) is very inconsistent, even across the same sheet, something could cut fine in one area but not in another, This is due to the various materials used to fill voids in the inner layer. There are literally dozens of existing discussions on this.

Baltic Birch, which uses multiple veneers, is far more reliable, but less commonly available. I get mine at Rockler, but other woodworking stores and wholesale wood suppliers sell it - as well as being available online.

Thank you, we don’t have too much options out here on the Big Island of Hawaii, and shipping is ridiculously high, but I do try to take advantage of the shipping deals when available.

There appears to be 16 lumber suppliers on the island.