I appreciate the kindness! Initially I had planned on using my own fingerprint, but the future of my business is what stopped me. Security is increasingly more important as time goes forward, and I figured mass producing my fingerprint for distribution may be a bad idea 
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Good choice! There’s enough detail in the 
version to send to NCIC 
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what can i use to make these permanent or food safe that is on top of the markers?
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Great work!
what were the settings used?
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Engrave and color from the back. May still need to seal it so cleaning it won’t get rid of the color
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I’ll have to do another updated thread, but recently I’ve been playing around with masking the tiles with transfer tape, then coloring with sharpie markers, and using spray shellac to seal it. I’ve done one with masking and one without, and in both cases I’ve needed to scrape off the excess shellac with a razor blade directly from the tile. It’s a pretty simple clean up. One of my next tests will be an enamel type clear coat and see if that would also work.
1000 speed, full power, and 450lpi. I haven’t toyed around outside of these settings too much, but I’ve read others have. The more LPI you have the longer it will take, but the finished product will be smoother.
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thank you very much.
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Sorry for the basic questions. I’m a little new to manual settings. Is the ‘speed’ Precision Power? And is the lpi ‘Speed’?
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LPI is lines per inch similar to dots per. Power (often called “pews” as in “pew pew pew”) is often just “full power” but if you see “80pew” that is 80% “precision power” in the GFUI. Speed (or “zooms”) is also the numbers available in the GFUI.
LPI is actual numbers so if you go down to ten LPI you will see ten lines per inch. For the other numbers the units appear to be secret hence the “pews” and “zooms” that many here have assigned them.
Since power is never over 100, and speed is rarely as slow as 100 the difference is usually easy to spot.
The LPI has a huge range but only specific numbers in that range, and of course every engrave needs an LPI and cuts never have them.
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Thank you for that explanation.
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No worries! Glad to help whenever and wherever I can on these sorts of things. It’s because of other forum members that I’m where I’m at, so it feels good to give back.
Alright, so first and foremost, when working with anything that is non-proofgrade material, you’ll want to manually enter the material height. This can be done by uploading your design, and on the glowforge interface clicking the “unknown” (or in some cases, changing the last used proofgrade option) and selecting the option use uncertified materials found towards the top right of the dialogue. In my case these tiles are about .3 inches.
After choosing that, you’ll have to manually change your layer settings by clicking on each individual layer and changing the settings. So the very top slider is speed which can vary between 1-1000 the next slider is power which can vary between 1-100-full power which can be confusing, but those are the options 
The LPI or lines per inch is how many times the laser will etch a line within a square inch, in my case 450 lines within that inch.
Ah, I see that @rbtdanforth was also able to help answer!
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Thanks a million. I will attempt to give it a shot this week. I appreciate the help.
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I’m trying my hand at one today! EEK. So excited!!
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That came out fantastic! (Why is your glass and tray so clean !!
) 
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Woohoo! That looks great! The first metallic sharpies I got were junk, but I went and bought an individual and it works so much better!
I literally have too many tiles to display so I have them laying flat on my desk
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My tray is FILTHY. I just cleaned the glass though lol. I’m getting some crazy flashback on acrylic pieces, need to clean the tray again.
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My wife and I have been invited to dinner tomorrow night to the restaurant of celebrity chef Curtis Stone by his wifs’s parents, who are good friends of ours. So I decided to make a tile that I will leave on the table.
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Classy. 
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