The boot process takes place every time you turn on the machine. The process you’re describing is how to connect to WiFi. Connecting to the same WiFi that it’s already connected to shouldn’t help anything. Connecting to another one could help some things, however. But I don’t think it will affect alignment.
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I sent them a support email when it first started. It said it should be between 1-3 days, but I’m betting it won’t take quite that long. I’m to the point now of building jigs to account for the miscalibration.
Sometimes they have to make an adjustment on their end. I’ve had it happen a couple of times for no reason that I could discern. 
Jigs are a good idea until they get it squared.
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That stinks. Hopefully support will get back to you quickly.
One thing you could check is that the crumb tray is seated properly. The feet should have gone into the divots. If it isn’t the height will be off.
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It won’t. Even though the auto email states 3 days the response time is typically much faster.
Hope they get you straightened out quickly.
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I did get a pretty quick response and I tried their suggestion, but it didn’t work. I sent them the results and they’re looking at it. In the mean time, I’m using work arounds and trying to cut something before the kids get home.
A 1.36 the top of your object to be engraved is below the top point where the honeycomb tray was and below the focal point. Can I assume you’ve placed shims and other objects underneath to raise the surface to be engraved at least above/at the top of the honeycomb you removed?
Unfortunately, I get the shift regardless of whether the crumb tray is in or not and whether I use proofgrade (with built in precise measurements) or with my own measurements. I’m pretty sure the head is just not calibrated correctly, but we haven’t quite figured out how to fix it yet. I know the software isn’t perfect yet and some shift is to be expected, but I had almost perfect alignment and now I don’t, so there’s definitely an issue.
I have really struggled today with user interface and file formats (which I’m sure would have happened regardless of head calibration). I know it’s just growing pains, and I am REALLY looking forward to knowing all of the things that I’m learning now and over the next few months. It is challenging though…in a good way.
I’m sure the software hopper is full and I don’t know what features I just haven’t uncovered yet, but I really wish there were built in text and simple drawing tools. And I wish I could figure out how to rotate an object from within the software. I wonder if all the work will always be done in other utilities or if glowforge will eventually get some of those tools.
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To rotate a vector object, click on it to select it and there is a little handle that sticks up at the top that you can drag on to rotate it. Click & hold on it, then hold down the Shift key while dragging, and you rotate it in 45° increments.
Not sure if they allow rotation on raster images yet though.
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I remember reading that only one type of file could currently be rotated, but I can’t remember if it was vectors or rasters. When you click on an object to resize it (bounding box with nodes in each corner), there is also a “lollypop-shaped” handle top and center; that’s the rotate handle.
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Bitmap images can not be rotated. Only Vector files.
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I thought the Glowforge had an autofocus head that would adjust for the height of the object, is it not using that measurement to set the lid camera?
as far as I know the autofocus is not activated yet.
That seems a pretty big feature to ship without fixing first. I was under the impression that it was active, but wouldn’t follow focus on a slightly curved surface.
That explains a lot of the issues people are having with alignment.
Autofocus is active. Remember we are talking about two focusing operations. Lid camera and head camera. Continuous autofocus over a changing surface may not be live now but head camera auto focuses.
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My bad, continuous AF is not active.
The red laser and head cam currently have single point autofocus, but not the continuous focus for curved surfaces.
However, the GF does not automatically populate the material thickness setting with the data from the head cam/red laser. We currently have to enter that manually if we are not using ProofGrade material, and after entering that thickness, the GF software de-warps the lid camera image again based on that material thickness to correct the image of the bed.
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Since the offset is only in Y it looks like maybe the lid wasn’t fully closed when it was calibrated. If you open the lid slightly by propping it on a shim can you make the camera aim lower down and bring the two images into alignment?
Another thing to check would be that the head is seated properly.
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The GF simply will not do anything if the lid is not completely seated.
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I think that may be the problem. The lid of the glowforge slightly bows in the middle. I don’t know if it was bowed when it came out of the box or not. I also don’t know if the camera has software to account for lid shift… You can see in the photo below that it’s flush on both ends but bowed up in the middle. I’m concerned about testing it by applying weight because I don’t want to damage it. If I had some rubber stoppers and a bar clamp type thing I could apply pressure only to the top of the bow and test it, but I’m kind of waiting on the glowforge response. I sent the image this morning.
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