Takes about 10 runs: mask with removable tape or label. Start with 600/Full/340 then gradually lower the speed each run to 300/Full/340 and then use 200/Full/450 on the final run. All glass acts differently so you might have to try a couple to get the science down. You’ll have to gently remove any glass flakes left over for a clean look
I also like the dish soap for glass and acrylic, especially since it washes off so easily. But if I’m going to paint the engrave, I use wood glue (let it dry first) - it peels off easily.
These are the direct engrave settings that I settled on, from another thread.
More passes and a deeper cut does look nice though.
@demarcusalexan if you get into glass work more check out my post on Rayzist Lazermask. You will need an airbrush sandblaster but it makes a really nice looking product. I have been unable to get that white frosted glass look with direct engraving, and I tried hard.
Very interesting, can you share your settings for the Chucky image? The frosted areas look great.
It may end up being down to the difference in the glass. I tried a lot of things to get that frosted look on shot glasses with no luck, but I never tried a sheet of glass.