This is a good explanation of kerf, it’s nice to have a video on the topic. Some people prefer to learn that way.
What you’re doing here is using a single dimension one-sided kerf correction to adjust by .0065“ while not changing the slot widths. This is a solid method, though sometimes kerf varies depending on your settings, material choice, and material thickness. This also leads to a slight asymmetry, such as if you’re doing finger joints, where one set of tabs will be slightly wider than the other. This can cause “handedness” in your designs where you have to be aware of which pieces are kerf adjusted and which are not while assembling.
I understand that this is YouTube and you’re probably shooting for 10 minutes ish to monetize so you probably didn’t have time to include how to determine the correct kerf value for your material. Maybe a good subject for a future video?
This sort of method is manual and destructive — for a simple single slot and single tab that’s the fastest method; with a larger box or with a more complicated design this method will struggle to scale, especially if you need to adjust the slots later. Do you have any tricks for how to handle more complicated set ups?
Again though the video is really good primer for people who have never done kerf adjustment before. If anyone wants more details they can study several of the longer posts that dive into the weeds(e.g. kerf testing, node management, serrated tabs, flip mating, hardwood vs plywood, box generators, stroke to path/offset, clones/modular design, and more. Kerf is a deep topic).
Further reading (and inspo for further videos in the series?)
Kerf testing:
Node management:
Serrated tabs:
Flip mating:
On kerf and hardwoods vs plywoods:
Box generators:
Stroke to path/offset methods:
Clones and modular design:
Gotta love the power of the forum — such a gold mine of information.