If you’re looking to etch metal (other than stainless steel) you need settings and examples. Marking stainless steel is easy and almost anything (including condiments) will work. Try and mark Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Chrome, Nickel, Glass, Ceramic, Titanium, etc. and you’ll likely find a CO2 laser (even the pro model) just doesn’t “cut it”.
Laserbond 100 (like ceramark and thermark before it) lets you make deep black markings like on overpriced coffee mugs. The inventor even publishes a comprehensive list of settings for best results of each material including all types of metal, ceramic, and even glass. So look no further, here you go, everything you wanted to know: https://goo.gl/h6DWw6
Laserbond 100 was developed by the inventor of ceramark, is less expensive, and performed better on all the materials tested by ToolMetrix: https://goo.gl/mVehL9 Now I can mark directly on all of my tools and metal projects. I might even mark on some glass and backlight it. I think a combination of etched glass and dark laserbond marking backlit by a some glowing LEDs would make a great sign!
It is 100% worth it. I ordered a can a few days after getting my GF (being my first laser as well) and it sprayed on even and smooth. Zapped it and used plain water to rinse it all clean.
These are some stainless steel bottle openers i did with it
Yes and no. It is cheaper and i feel that the process for spraying it on is easier that Cermark, but Cermark is a one layer coat and zap kind of application. Also, when laserbond100 is complete, it is perfectly smooth. Cermark, has a raised feeling almost like an embossing. My customers have been liking that more to the touch so i have been using the Cermark more often but both do great work
I use Laserbond and love it. Haven’t tried any other marking medium, but since I’ve had great success with LB, I don’t feel the need to try anything else.
The above statement is true, but a bit misleading as this table of settings from the manufacturer is difficult to ‘translate’ into Glowforge settings. It can give you a starting point perhaps, but some trial and error and testing is still necessary.
I bought the marking spray… it melts into the lacquer on the clear coating on the tin. The marking spray does not come off the tin as it reacts to the chemicals in the lacquer.
I would cover the surface with masking tape and marking your space precisely do a quick engrave through the masking and lacquer, then add your spray and engrave that, if the lacquer is insoluble in Alcohol the masking adhesive is not and with a bit of soaking will fall right off.
Test run on a knife with Laserbond that I wasn’t worried about ruining if that’s how it went. You can kind of see a little remnant of my laser test with dijon mustard that failed.
(just jokin!!)
