No overburn in the corners on woods since the power adjustment?

Okay, granted, we’re still likely to see it on something totally flimsy like paper, but since the Precision Power settings were released Tuesday, I haven’t seen corner overburn on the woods with the Scores.

(Haven’t tested acrylics yet, I’m trying to work my way through the various materials methodically.)

Anybody else run any corner tests yet? Even the dark (default) Score setting did not burn the previous pinholes in the corners. Needless to say, faster or lower power Scores are golden.

Pending confirmation from someone else (because this is a PRU) …I’d say you guys have nailed it! Congratulations @Tony and @staff ! :boom::sparkles::dizzy::balloon::fireworks:

(I’ll bet you guys are going to get tired of hearing that from me…just gonna have to suck it up and take it.) :wink:


Holy smokes! I had not tried it yet, so I just did: no overburn on cherry hardwood on the dark setting! Yahooooo!

Haven’t used score much until now, but that’s gonna change.


Dan said they haven’t fixed the over burn yet. I think with lower power it just doesn’t go all the way through thick material, so you don’t get the holes.

Here is a post that shows it is still a problem on thin materials: Low power on printer paper


ChuckIe! For everyone else, I think you will be thrilled with the results of the Precision Power settings. Give the Scores a try again. :wink:


i think this is pretty condescending to @palmercr. all he did was reiterate dan’s very own words.


If you score transparent acrylic you will be able to see it go much deeper in the corners. With wood it will be hard to see.


How unfortunate that you would consider that condescending. I considered it rather accurate in intent. Also unfortunate that you would automatically assume I was referencing a certain person. Is it possible that you have also made a judgement here?

(By the way, just for the record…I don’t much care for derogatory or snide references to cheerleaders. Not necessarily directed at you, but at everyone who makes them.)

Is everybody up to speed?

I don’t really respond well to people trying to shame me.


I knew I liked you for a reason lol.


No more bashing please. On either side. I think we’ve all had enough. (I have.)

Let’s all go design some cool stuff to use on our lasers when they arrive, and we’ll let bygones be bygones.


Semi-confirmation (since I have a PRU)-- I made a file specifically to test burn-through on scoring, then used scraps of Proofgrade Maple ply and clear acrylic. Despite warnings from @Rita that the new settings might not work with by PRU, I planned for success and used the new PG settings for dark score.

Here’s the front…

and the back…

Not a single pinprick or burn-through. Nada. :squee: :squee: :squee: :squee: :squee: :squee:

NB: The flashback on the acrylic is an artifact of optically aligning the print on the very edge of the scrap. The accuracy of placement is not far superior than it was a few days ago — WooHoo!

Here’s my test file if anyone wants it: (1.3 KB) – too tired to futz with settings. :wink:


Coolness! Thanks to @cynd11 and you for confirming. (We’re all PRUs, but we’re using the Production settings so it should be the same.)

Awesome! :sunglasses:


Now to make a tiny 1/8" chess set…


I have seen faster processing time for files and the disappearance of a ‘Shadow line’ around the edges of engraves that really bothered me, as well as random deeper scores across engraves in this pre-release unit.
The power control is great. All of a sudden, it’s a lot more fun!

Never owned a tool that continued to improve. Looking forward to that evolution - Nice work :glowforge: team. :sunglasses:



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Happy to be of service. I’d love a good laugh too, wanna share?

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That would be most of mine. Seems the more I use them the better my results :slightly_smiling_face:


I think we have a different definition of overburn. It still applies two much energy in the corners due to slowing down and that will make the score go deeper in the corners. So I consider the title of this post to be untrue.

What has changed is that with the low power settings you can make much shallower scores, so when it goes too deep it doesn’t go all the way through. So it has fixed the pinprick holes in the corner when scoring thicker materials but it still overburns in corners.

I thought that Dan meant it was fixed by “no momentary hot or cold spots” but when I asked he said “We haven’t addressed corner power yet - things will continue to get better for a long time to come.”

Being able to reach very lower powers should allow them to ramp down the power during deceleration. If power level 1 is low enough that might be all that they need to do. If not they need to decelerate to the speed commensurate with the minimum power and then turn off the laser, overshoot the corner and orbit around to start the next line at minimum power and then ramp up while accelerating.


I got the idea the overburn in the corners is not fixed, but harder to notice because of the lower power settings available. If you look at the last picture in @jamesdhatch 's power settings test, it seems the corners are still getting more power than the rest of the square, but that if your material is thick enough and you pick just the right settings you can have the corners not burn all the way through. In his example on baltic birch plywood, 100% power even at the highest speed still shows corner burn-through.


Yes at full power the corner burn will be as before. When cutting through it doesn’t matter much apart from more splash back.

When doing shallow scores in opaque materials it also doesn’t matter much if they are thick enough. The score is so narrow it would be hard to see that goes deeper in the corners but perhaps the kerf gets a bit wider as well.

In acrylic it will be very obvious when viewed at angle.

So yes the low power mode is great for mitigating the effects of over burn but doesn’t affect the cause, which is slowing down at corners without reducing power.


I imagine the calculation is pretty complex, given if the curve is a perfect circular arc that’s at least constant, and right angles seem better to overrun (shut off on the right moment), but a complex spline curve seem a very complicated power/speed calculation. Since you seem more up specifically on this algorithm, how does one calculate that around crazy curves?

I imagine a CNC mill has similar issues (adjust feeds and speeds when curving) so what do those CAM packages do (I’ve got an X-carve so have used Easel a bit, but not sure it does anything special on curves)