I also have the screw clamp at the machine tight. I used a nut driver instead of a screwdriver to cinch it down. I don’t doubt it’s possible to break the flange, but the structure of a circle can withstand considerable pressure applied evenly around it’s circumference as those screw clamps do.
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I was just going to mention that the Quick Disconnect that we use was not designed to be air tight, and that might be the source of your leaks. We got around it with copious application of clear silicone caulk. 
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I have foil tape around the pipe side of the quick disconnect, so I am pretty sure that’s not leaking. But I don’t see how I could caulk the disconnect mechanism without eliminating it’s ability to disconnect (quickly). I think I will just remove that part from the equation.
While there may be some smell from time to time, I never experience a sharp odor unless there is some leak or the exhaust is somewhat obstructed. Double check the length of the hose, all connections, eliminate all hose leaks and also ensure that the final exhaust has nothing that would restrict it, like a fine mesh screen or something.
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It’s hard to describe without taking it apart - just check the connections, there might be places where it needs caulking.
Here’s a really lousy picture, but you can see some of the places where we caulked on the inside through the acrylic panel.
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Thanks, Jules. That looks like a MUCH better quick-disconnect. The one I am using is really flimsy, and I am sure is not sealing well. Where did you get that one?
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My quick-disconnect likes to leak too. One other question: what’s the prevailing wind direction? If you’re trying to exhaust into the wind you can have problems. Oh, and how’s the seal around the panel that’s blocking the window?
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It’s actually two parts - one is the end cap flap things, and the other is a two-part Quick Disconnect, which makes it possible to caulk the pieces where they are permanently attached to the hose and flap cap.
I think we got that at Lowe’s. (Might have been Home Depot though, they both should carry similar products in the dryer hose connection section.)
Not when they are sitting in a zip-lock bag.
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The whole window connection is suspect. Lots of sealing I need to do there. Wind shouldn’t be an issue as it’s venting into a narrow space began houses.
Where did you find your hose? 
This is the hose:
It is very sturdy, and the flexible material is almost sticky - makes a good seal.
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Two things:
- instead of a disconnect, how about using a blast gate.
- most sliding windows leave an open gap between the frame of the sliding window and the glass of the stationary one. Use something to block this.
You can see what I did, including links to products in this post:
I still had some leaks on my first print. I have now sealed both ends (I hope) with foil tape.
Also, since you’ve been running yours for a while in the garage, you may want to check the fan’s screen for blockage.
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I considered a blast gate, but my thought was that this would leak even worse. I don’t see any way for a blast gate NOT to leak.
Good point about the gap between window sections - I will check that.
It’s a pretty tight fit between the slide and housing.
What, she can smell them unlit through a plastic bag? What happens when you light one?
I have used them a few times to study airflow but we normally burn them to make the house smell nice. They don’t smell unlit and I am hyper sensitive to smells. I can’t stand perfume.
These things were powerful. Just touching them left a residue that seemingly smelled forever. Took days for the smell to go away after I threw them out.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I sealed up the window vent, and got rid of the quick disconnect (for now). I’ll have to run some more tests, but I think this has mostly solved the issue.
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I’m glad you were able to resolve this! I’m going to close this thread, but if you have any more questions, please either start a new thread or email support@glowforge.com.