World Cup Logo Edge Lit Sign

led

#1


Not much World Cup love on this forum. @cordioli made a keyring.

I took the logo and styled it for an edge lit sign while I was watching England-Croatia today.

The official SVG found on wikipedia images was a dastardly combination of clipping paths and gradients that I ended up having to wrangle in XML for a clean file.

Apologies to the logo design since I mangled it a bit. Curious as to how @cordioli did his. I hadn’t seen a two color version like his and I spent way too much time tweaking it for the edge lit acrylic.

I got some strange line through the “FIFA WORLD” text. Nothing in the file and nothing on the screen that I can see. Will try it again and see if it was just a misfire.



#2

Well done marmak3261! The LED stand is really nice as well, did you make that too?

Was the file an SVG or a bitmap? It looks like the same issue we’ve seen with open nodes or nodes too close together causing the lines. You can avoid them by converting the file to a bitmap before engraving.


#3

Yes, I’d love to know more about the stand—what are the sides made of?


#4

Wondering if the stand is a 3D print? Looks great.

If so … I am seriously going to have to figure out what kind to buy.


#5

I will double check that text to make sure that all the letters are closed paths. That might have been what caused it.

It was an SVG to start with lots of clipping paths and gradient fills. Some of the shapes were not closed and some were on top of another so I had to join and and separate. I generally make everything an SVG so I can get maximum control and potential for scaling to whatever size I want.

The stand is a 3D print. I have some translucent filament that does some nice color. This is just a plain PLA. Stay tuned for another big project with the same type of base but a different shape that uses different colors of translucent for the base.

I really like my Prusa. It worked well right off the bat. The Prusa forked version of Slic3r does a super job of slicing and prepping the object.

I have a Creality CR-10s and it works great too. I had to do a little more work in getting Cura to slice the way I wanted and then switched to the main branch of Slic3r and have it tweaked now to get great prints.

Here are my thoughts about getting into 3D printing:

  1. Learn a 3D design software like OnShape or Fusion 360. That is will enable you to get the maximum enjoyment and utility. Thingiverse and other sites have loads of models that will keep you busy, But I end up redesigning almost every object to fit my needs. We are talking practical prints, not dragon eggs and comic book characters.

  2. Getting the bed leveled and nozzle height set is something that takes time and experience. If you haven’t done any 3D printing, get someone to help you run your initial setup and first prints. That will save you time. I did ok with my first prints, but there are so many things to consider, it’s hard to understand what it is all about at the beginning. That’s if you buy kits or some assembly required.

  3. Understand filament loading and unloading and the whole hot end setup, most important temps for different filaments. I was having lots of trouble till I realized that the Maker Geeks PLA required a much higher temp than default PLA settings. Things really improved for me after that. Now if I can only get my flexible filament to work.

  4. Understand the limitations of FDM printing. The layers as artifacts of printing are just part of the deal. Design can make these more or less obvious. I have found that designing for strength and ease of printing don’t always go together. That is where design intent is so important as you choose the most appropriate plane for the design surfaces.

  5. Support structures. Figuring out ways to minimize needing support can sure speed up print times and post processing. I’m still learning here.

There are loads of videos out there. I watched them all before I ended up buying a printer. Then I rewatched them once I finally had some experience about what exactly they were talking about.

I’m at the point of digging into my slicer settings to keep tweaking for my own prints. It’s absolutely overwhelming to start with. That’s why I liked the Prusa ecosystem. Just so much stuff out there and the presets were great.


#6

I agree. It is most likely an open node. I usually do the same thing and just convert the layer when that happens. Plus for complex files a image it is way faster to process then a vector.

I’m just in the process of making more boxes and converting the art first drastically reduces the processing time for each print.


#7

You know, I’ve haven’t tested that out since the early days of my PRU. I’ve not noticed processing times with my images, so I don’t pay attention to that.

And one final thing: dope slap me! I didn’t clicky on the black and white option on Google image search. Duh.


#8

I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and your thoughts! Time to watch some videos and continue my learning path in Fusion 360! Then buy! Thank you, again!