I’m just guessing. My first pattern was just lines separated by a space that was half the length of the cut. Then I staggered each row so the next line’s cut was centered on the above line’s gap. Then I ran several 2 to 4 inch by 1 inch tests moving the rows closer together until I got good flexibility. However, 1 kerf lines leaves you with a rather stiff bend. The second pattern (which I used above) cuts elongated diamond shapes that are about 1mm tall by 20mm wide. This provides much more flexibility. The trick is removing enough material in your cut to allow the cut edges room to move while retaining enough material to maintain strength. If that made any sense…
Wow!!! that is fantastic. Definitely keep sharing, these are super inspirational. I’m about 2 weeks from golden e-mail and am getting more and more excited with all the amazing things people are making. Thanks for sharing!!!
There was a post in the not too distant past that contained links to some of the math behind living hinges and a deeper discussion of them. I’ve searched for that post, but I haven’t found it yet. Too many posts.
Nope. Although that is a fine post. Also I guess I was using too long a timeframe for my ‘not too distant past’ comment. It was probably about 6 months to a year ago. It was around the time that @marmak3261 was playing around with living hinges with his PRU. It’s probably stuck in a 150 post topic that meanders all over the place.
Actually that part was easy. Since I was just doing a proof of concept and not trying to get a perfect size/shape, I just had to make sure to have a smooth curve. It’s just a simple spline to a midpoint. The tension in the bend is what supports the top and that same tension causes the curves to naturally line up. By stretching and changing the depth of the curve I could make it taller and thicker/thinner. I thought if I were to do another one I’d make it tall enough to put a thin flower vase inside. Or make one a little wider and put a light in it.