Hacks to conceal edge joints

[GerardA]

Anyone have any great ways to conceal the edges where two flat wood pieces join?

[evansd2]

You might like these two threads:

Planar butt jointing techniques

THERE ARE PICTURES DOWN BELOW! Don’t run away because of all the dumb text I’ve recently completed a study of various inlay-esque plane jointing techniques, where two pieces of wood butt up against each other edge-to-edge in the same plane. As with my finger joint roundup, I had a few rules I set up at first to keep the scope manageable. No more than two species of wood involved. No “islands”. All wood needed to be firmly attached to its “side” of the joint Light, constant kerf cor…

Variations of finger joints

Finger joints are practical and boring. Rather than fighting against them as a constraint, I tried to imagine them as design elements. I only had one general rule: Anything added should actually be part of the joint. This is about finger joints, not inlay projects. This is what I came up with. The techniques came in a few varieties: Obscured: I tried to implement them in a way that would minimize or distract from the inherent blockiness. Highlighted: Run toward the light. Incorporate …

Both talk about that sort of thing.

[PrintToLaser]

@GerardA

ways to conceal the edges

If you can’t hide it - accentuate it. Make it a feature.

[rbtdanforth]

@PrintToLaser

If you can’t hide it -

What you can’t hide, Flaunt. A very famous rule…
This is an example…

Double Helix Tea Light Enclosure

[Doppler]

I haven’t tried it yet, but mitered edges are on my experimental To Do list.

Stained Glass Lamp with Mitered Corners

Some of you may remember the teaser I posted a few days ago about miter cuts on the Glowforge. I finally scraped together enough “me” time to finish the project. I’ve been working on it a long time! (@marmak3261 saw parts of it when he visited last week). First, the finished project, then I’ll show the progress photos in case anybody is interested in trying something similar. [image] [image] Total height is 4.25" and the “stained glass” panels are 2" each side including the walnut corners…

[rbtdanforth]

Then again you can avoid edge connections completely…

[Doppler]

For 90-degree angles, acrylic facades work great.

[Aloha]

I really like this double helix design!!! Great work!

[rbtdanforth]

@Aloha

this double helix design!

There are several more “in the hopper” though one is very fishy.

[rbtdanforth]

@rbtdanforth

though one is very fishy.

Well, I no longer have to play coy.

[Aloha]

Hahahahaha punny.
I really love the design!

[Aloha]

my is still broken waiting for a part… so I’m just looking at things that I can’t make.
::insert Lucille Ball loud cry:::

[rbtdanforth]

@Aloha

my is still broken waiting for a part…

You can plan and get ready?
Wishing your machine good health soon.

[Aloha]

I have completed designs, however, I can’t test betas. For example, I have some leather stitch holes, and no way of determining if they are spaced correctly, the correct distance, etc.
so I completed the design, but may need to go back after testing the holes.

We need a regional Glowforge parts distribution center for Hawaii

[rbtdanforth]

[Aloha]

captain.

[rbtdanforth]

@Aloha

I can’t test betas.

[Aloha]

You are getting fishy again

[rbtdanforth]

Back to the op.
I have always found that a single plane tends to be weak which is why I went to the fingers system to start with. However, when confronted with a situation where that was not possible, I engraved the interacting area down to less than a millimeter so in the offending area (it was plywood) it was as thin as veneer and worked very well.