Made 8 successfully last night as described above. Was hoping to get better “edge” results by manipulating focus.
Attempted 2 this AM using the same file (but deleted the artwork for the 2 missing jig positions). Did everything the same as I did last night, except that I spotted a reference to the “red laser” for set focus, so played around trying to get the red to line up for 15 minutes. Eventually, I caved and accepted a near-to-top high point of the laser.
Hit print and ruined both flasks because it decided to offset the artwork differently today than yesterday. Super frustrating. Have no idea why the “X” would have changed. It’s a 12x20 SVG file and the only differences was the removal of two art pieces for the missing flasks. The 4 “jig” outlines were still present. As you can see the visual offset is similar to what I saw yesterday but that did work.
Any advice welcomed. I’m certain there are folks out there doing repeatable work on the machine, but clearly GF “magic” is interfering with my ability to get consistent results. I think the right focus thing to do is to set the focus height by doing the math as suggested in some other forum posts, which I will try next I guess, but I need to be able to rely on the XY not getting fudged up.
Once you have the precise location on both the vector art and the jig you will get the correct engrave at every try. When anything is selected the location can be found by picking the rectangle at the bottom left of the GFUI that will give the specifics of what is selected. not only if it correct but even if not you can measure the result and do the math and use those numbers.
As mentioned getting the correct height on a curve is hard, but the numbers on the precision measure goodie are precise no matter what it looks like and will always cut/engrave at that location.
Once you have the precise location on both the vector art and the jig you will get the correct engrave at every try.
Clearly, not what I’m seeing.
Last night used the jig and the same artfile 4x to check the position on each of the locations, then ran 2x jobs with 4 flasks and everything was correct XY. This morning, ran the same file, the same way, with the same jig (unmoved) and the only thing I did differently was played around with set focus. I can’t see how set focus would affect the XY in any way. I did not move or manipulate the artwork with the GFUI at all. I guess I’ll ask support.
I should not but did you check the precision location? There is a very fancy math that converts location through the fisheye lens to what you see. If that is off then where it thinks a point is at different elevations will be off too. Precise location goes around that problem but a good configure that has measured where pieces are and done the math may be why it works for me. you need a clean sheet of material 11x20 to do a configuration on the crumb tray. after that has been done successfully everything will be more accurate, including set focus.
If you look at the images above, you can see I am not relying on the image at all for placement and that the artwork looks wildly off, yet aligned correctly.
I’m using a 12x20 artboard with my SVG and successfully uploaded the SVG (with variation) on 6x engraves yesterday and they were all positioned correctly since I used the same artboard to cut the jig.
What you need is to make sure the camera is right, I misremembered it is calibration not configuration. Click on the link and do it if you haven’t. Otherwise use the Set Focus on the bottle nearest the center and have a double layer of masking on it the set image to score instead of engrave at top speed and about 5 power. This will make a light line affecting only the masking. then you can check the precision placement and add (or subtract) the distance in the precision power “pulldown” and try again. When you have it Highlight everything and wright write down the numbers. Those numbers should be correct every time.
This is my biggest challenge with the GF as well. It’s damn near impossible for me to get consistent, repeatable results without being able to manually set the zero point. the same job using the same file and the same jig NEVER turns out the same…NEVER. I am so frustrated with this machine.
I created a simple test file (just the GF logo) a few years ago. I scored it onto a piece of material that seated into the lower-left corner of the tray. I removed the material and the tray, replaced them, and scored it again, and you could not tell it had been scored twice other than being darker. I kept that piece and tested it again a few months ago to prove a point, possibly over two years later, and it still did not even show signs of being printed more than once other than darkening up a bit more.
My tray seats in precisely the same location every time when you wiggle it into its natural center, and the head is stunningly accurate. The only issue now is my tube is failing, but after 5 years, I’m not complaining.
Sorry for your frustration. Are you using the set focus before placing your artwork? Are you watching to make sure the red beam lands squarely on your material at the point you intend to place your artwork? If you are using a jig, how are you insuring that you place the jig in the same place everytime?
That’s the challenge, there is no way to cut the jig, remove the crumb tray and then replace the jig in the same place. And you can’t cut the jig with the crumb tray out because it’s not high enough. There needs to be a thinner crumb tray solution.
Cut the jig with the crumb tray out. Simply elevate your jig material with risers such as these: X-Risers or have a look at this thread: Grid jig to make another jig
Presuming you have run the calibration routine, you can cut out a sheet of proofgrade with the pieces arranged as needed and just for grins engrave an x in the middle somewhere. Then you can make some structure that will hold the flasks so they fit in the holes and the piece you cut will all be in the range ~1.65" above the floor without the tray.
With everything in place you can use the set focus by picking the engraved x two or more times till that same x in your design is directly above it (you might have to nudge the design about after each time to place it to align with the x, and then run set focus again). (That original cut now set to ignore)
When Set Focus no longer changes anything your design will be perfectly aligned and it will engrave the rest correctly.
When you created your test file, how many logos(L to R)/rows(T to B), did you setup? I have been trying to make one but I’m just not sure about the number of logos/positions and I really can’t afford to waste material. TIA
