you might want to consider playing with upping the speed and doing 2 passes instead of 1. I’ve had much more success doing that and having only a little burning of the edges (looks more caramelized than charred). I’m not at my laser right now so I can’t test anything for you at the moment.
I have spent hours and hours searching and reading
Why post if you’re not going to be additive?
I have asked a very specific questions that has never been answered on here. Obviously slowing the speed or increase the number of cuts will yield different results.
I have tried numerous configurations (multiple passes at different speeds) and the best result I have been able to get is what I posted asking for assistance on.
I think it’s a hard question to answer because one batch of “baltic birch” can be different from another. One end of the board can be different from the other. Somebody could probably suggest a starting point, but your settings are close enough that experimentation is the only way you’re going to be able to dial it in to your liking.
I’ve cut using 2 passes in the past at 140 speed, full power, at a 0.18 focus height.
But I’ve given up on that and now I’m typically cutting two 1/8 pieces and gluing them together. It takes about the same amount of time, and there is much less charring.
BTW I promise I am not trying to be harsh, but everyone’s time is valuable, so I don’t spend a lot of time on padding the message. This information is out there, I promise. You spent hours searching, but when the search was literally “1/4 birch settings” I didn’t think you’d need help figuring out recommended search terms. Sorry if I misinterpreted where you were coming from.
Maybe you read all those already. I doubt it, because what more is there to ask? There’s no magic bullet with settings, eventually you get a general idea and then it comes down to testing. My 1/4" birch can be pretty different from yours. Things like:
slight variations in the piece
ambient temperature
how long since you last cleaned the lenses/windows
are you masking or not
moisture content in the wood
…Can all shift settings numbers around. All of this information is out there in the forums, you’re still pretty new, but if you spend the time to really dig, you can learn a ton beyond what we’re telling you here. Especially listen to @chris1, @julybighouse, and @polarbrainfreeze, if you look at their stats, these guys are heavy hitters and know their stuff.
For my 1/4 inch BB ply, I use speed 150, full power, focus set to .209". I haven’t any trouble with it cutting or over charring. Pretty much the same settings as PG thick maple ply.
Yeah here you go: If I were to search for this, I would be looking at “inches per minute” as a term and see stuff like the following:
The way a laser works with wood is really complicated, so it’s not often as easy as slowing down the beam by x percent to get x percent more cutting. You get more charring and stuff at slower speeds and so it tends to “gum up” the cut sort of.
I bet your best bet is going to be to do some experiments. If you hunt around, there are lots of posts about cut testing methods that can get you dialed in pretty quickly. They all basically come down to the same thing, make a bunch of test cut lines at different colors and then use the UI to set power and speed across a range. Find the best one, and run with it.
I will be doing trial and error. But man it would have been nice if someone maybe crossed the bridge before and said “hey one time i needed slightly more that 105@100 and xyz worked”.
Isn’t that the point of a community. To be able to share knowledge in an efficient manner.
I have literally spent more time getting told I don’t search and its too hard to answer from you than reading actual insight.
I’ll tell you what, when I’m finished I will post what setting I found hit slightly harder than 105@100 percent in this thread so when someone else asks even a similar question you can get up on the high horse then and tell them they don’t know how to search.
On thick materials, it will also help to change the focal height to a spot below the surface rather than at the surface height. I didn’t see any mention of focal height in the original post.
The beam converges above the focal point and then begin to diverge beyond the focal point wood also works to reflect the beam along the interior of the wood. It also takes a certain amount of energy to pierce the material.
Additionally, flatness gets (more) important at these thicknesses. As non flat material effectively changes how in focus the material is at that particular point.
And even with perfect settings you get imperfect material.
