Pirate Treasure Chest


Okay, last one folks…and up front: a HUGE Thank You to the experts for their invaluable assistance, to everyone who does not consider themselves an expert (yet) for letting me sneak all these files in early; and to everyone who commented, because I got a ton of new ideas from it… :smiley:

To @dan and Glowforge : This serves as a limited license to use any of the files I have posted, or will post, in this Free Laser Designs Category for testing purposes during the design of the software, and if the designs work, you may also use any physical objects created from those files for display at Maker Events if you wish, with two exceptions: Sheep Trivet, and Ridiculously Fancy Grill Rack Hook. (Although freely distributed on the internet, specific permission to use them this way was not obtained from the original jpeg artists before their designs were modified and incorporated into my designs, so those may not be displayed in a public forum.)

That’s it…just wanted to get that out there.

(EVERYBODY reading this: Start loading up some designs! They need test cases to work out how their software is going to work, and to check to make sure that the stuff designed in one program translates the same way as the stuff designed in another program. They need beginners and experts and everybody in between. Now is the time to get what you think the Glowforge ought to be able to do out there where they can see it!).

Pirate Treasure Chest

Be kind on this one, because it was built it from scratch, without using box tab generators, so I’m not sure how it will look once the tabs are connected. (Not a straight up and down shaped box. Might not work.)

This is what I’m shooting for:

Programs Used:

Inkscape (Oval Box Generator)

(BTW: results copied from Inkscape into Illustrator cause a Validation error when you try to open an SVG file saved from Illustrator later. Solution: You guessed it, rework the imported results in AI before saving the SVG.)


Treasure Chest2.zip (5.9 KB)

Note: File has been updated to include some cross beams, which you are going to need to attach hardware.

Thanks again guys & gals! :grinning:

Pirate box maps and coins
Pirate's Booty
Well Escutch Me
Pirate's Booty

For several years (long before I thought I’d own a laser cutter) I have been wanting to find/make a treasure chest sized to serve as a business card holder for my desk. I’ll have to take a look at this design when my Glowforge arrives to see if I can adapt it for that need. Thanks for sharing!


How did you calculate the living hinge? It looks very good. Did you use an add on or build from scratch? Nice design. Thanks.


I had to rebuild a partial hinge that I pulled out of the Inkscape Oval Box Generator program. I only had to rebuild it because it was preventing the AI SVG file from saving correctly in Illustrator. (Trying to open the saved SVG from outside of AI was giving a Verification error. So I just recreated those lines in AI, and the new one saved correctly.)


(In line with checking the obvious things, did you make double sure to use the vanilla svg format rather than “inkscape svg”, which never works right with anything else?)




One of the things that I make on a very regular basis are wooden mugs. I make them “slat style” and I think that technique would work very well on this project as well (specifically the Lid).

Each “slat” is the same width and height (adjust to fit the application) and you need to cut each of them to be a trapezoid shape (when looking at the “end grain” of the piece). The angle of the cut depends on the number of slats that you are using. 180/(# of slats * 2 edges) <-- 180 because you are only making a half circle for the lid, # of slats times two to accommodate each edge of each piece.

Hope that is useful! If doing this completely on the GF, then it means that it would need the chamfer ability to cut the angle on each “slat”


That is very interesting, because I was considering using slats for the lid (it would look better with a less rounded top), but i knew it wouldn’t work as well without a chamfer on it, and i wasn’t sure the GF would be able to cut one.

It would be an awesomely cool ability to have, if they could pull it off! (It would certainly be on my wish list for down the road.)


I’ve thought about a cooperage design for a mug. I just figured it would be easier to set up a jig with plane to plane off the chamfer of the slats. But a Glowforge cut champfer would be sweet.


Here is a photo of one of my mugs.

It’s made from 4 different types of wood, Curly Maple, Purpleheart, Bloodwood and Mahogany. Nothing is stained. I’ve used it for about 3 years now and I’m currently completing work on a new mug that has 15 different woods, one for each slat. I hope to have pictures of it completed sometime next week.

Sake cups

If you’re willing to build a jig to hold your pieces at an angle, chamfering should be no problem. With 2" of vertical space available, you can tip even a pretty big piece.

Regular flat cutting also produces a chamfer (in some materials) but it might not be enough for practical purposes. (And then there’s the variable-depth engraving, which could simulate a chamfer but would probably need a bunch of testing. If you got really good control of depth you could do the kerf-bending thing, which would make chest tops particularly sweet.)

Slatted Treasure Chest Project


Wow! That is just gorgeous! Must take quite a while to do those, I’d bet?)


I’ve worked out all the kinks in the system and I can make the wooden part of the mug in 3 evenings, and then the epoxy I use takes another 3 days to cure. So I can make a mug start to finish in a weeks worth of evenings. Typically I’ll make 2 or 3 mugs at the same time.

The one you see in the picture holds about 32 oz of liquid, about a nalgene’s worth.

For fun I made a mug that holds approximately 2 gallons of liquid, I call it my party mug :wink:


Cool! :smile:


Looks awesome!


That’s a very nice mug. What do you use to waterproof it, how do you apply it and how long does it normally last? Also, what method do you use to mount the handle to the mug? I’ve been trying to find these answers out for a while yet can’t seem to find an answer. Does it handle coffee or other hot drinks? Thanks in advance for any help you could provide. :slight_smile:


@wcwoodturning, I use Epoxy (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Parks-1-qt-Gloss-Super-Glaze-Finish-and-Preservative-241352/202056337) inside the mugs and Lacquer for the outside. My first Mug was made 3-4 years ago and I’m still using that mug with no issues. Out of the 15 or more mugs that I’ve made since then, only one has come back with a minor leak, a small application of more epoxy fixed it. This Epoxy has held up to multiple uses of Hot beverages (Hot Chocolate, hot Mulled Cider, Hot Mulled Wine, and more) as well as iced beverages.

For Mounting the handle, I make sure both surfaces that will meet with the mug are flat and level with each other (much easier if you flatten the side of the wood before you cut the handle out of it). I then take a blade and intentionally mar the surfaces. I mark the areas on the mug where the handle will meet with it and mar those surfaces as well. I use Titebond III and apply it to the open ends on the mug handle and then apply a little bit of salt (prevents it from slipping). I then press it to the mug and I use two clamps to hold it in place.


As promised, Here is a photo of the latest mugs that I completed this past weekend.

Left Mug is a 15 Sided Purpleheart Mug holds about 40 oz of liquid.

Back Mug is a 6 Sided Wenge and Walnut Mug holds about 40 oz of liquid.

Front Mug is a 5 Sided Purpleheart and Curly Maple holds about 12 oz of liquid.

Right Mug is a narrow 15 Sided Mug holds about 32 oz of liquid. It has 15 different types of wood. Dark Bicote, Leopardwood, Zebrawood, Brazilian Rosewood, Cherry, Curly Maple, Bloodwood, Walnut, Purpleheart, Hickory, Wenge, Yellowheart, Bicote, Soft Maple, and Mahogany.


Wow, this is really cool. I think It would make me constantly want some mead though. :wink:

Very nice craftsmanship.