Burned paper edges


#1

I find myself somewhat frustrated because I could not get to cut paper without the burned edges, I had many projects to do, I will have to use silhouette cameo :sleepy:


#2

Unfortunately, the support team doesn’t provide instructions for cutting paper products.

Have you looked for the settings people are using for papers in the Beyond the Manual section? Just do a search for “settings” and “paper” in that section.


#3

What kind of paper were you using? I’m curious. I’ve been able to cut wrapping type tissue paper without burned edges. Some of the thicker paper, especially white might show up some scorching,

Some folks have used engraving to burn through with success. Can you post a picture of what’s going on? Thanks.


#4

I have searched the forum for information that can help me and I still have not got a solution, but I will do it one more time, thanks!


#5

If you don’t mind if I shift your topic there, you’ll probably have about a dozen folks chime in with what they did successfully. :smile:


#6

For heavy card stock (0.015” thick) I’ve found that speed 400, power 70 works pretty well. Or you can Engrave all the way through it with speed 650, power 45, 225lpi. Any discoloration can be wiped away with a little bleach on a q-tip (as long as it’s white card stock).


#7

I’ve been using 500/50 for cutting 110lb card stock.


#8

I’ve found that paper can be finicky. In one case, I had different colors of the exact same brand and weight of card stock and my best results came from tweaking the settings ever so slightly for each color. With that said, it’s worth having a sacrificial sheet or two that you can play with until you get the settings dialed in just right.

Will try to remember to look tomorrow to see what weight of paper it was + what my settings were.


#9

I get no burned edges with copy weight paper using about 400/10%.

BUT…I think the most important step in preventing flashback on the paper is to use a mat of some kind underneath it, and making sure that the paper is completely stuck down flat to it everywhere, to keep air from getting in underneath and feeding the flame.

Unfortunately we can’t use a Silhouette mat - we’d burn through it. You can make one though using the Krylon 7020 spray adhesive on a sheet of thin flat plywood. (And yes, you’ll cut into it, just like we do with the Silhouette mats.) Or they sell Seklema mats for the laser. Either will work to contain the flame from the backside.

And just remember to add the thickness of the mat into the total material height.


#10

The general consensus is that you have to use the engrave setting to cut your paper if you don’t want crispy corners. Also, all paper scorches at different settings, so there is a fair amount of experimenting for each type of paper you are going to use. From what I have read here a drag cutter is going to be faster than a glowforge engraving all of your cuts, but the glowforge can do things a drag cutter cannot. There are certainly some impressive pieces of work posted to the forum of projects using paper.

In this post newbies_234 offers some advice on paper cutting:

Here he made a snake, although there was some charring in areas:

Forum member joker makes playing cards:

More discussion on issues with paper and solutions:

I think the final takeaway is it can be done, but it is far from magic.