My first experiment with conventional jigsaw puzzles


#1

Sorry, forgot to photo before I took it off the grate. 83 pieces.

Many thanx to @Draradech for his puzzle generator.

Next we start expermenting with color photos!

Next we start expermenting with color photos!


#2

Cool! What is the original image? It makes me think of “the Punisher” logo for some reason, but I don’t think it comes from that?


#3

Looks like a space station to me? Also would like to know…

Fun project!


#4

Rotor assembly to an helio with the radar module loaded.


#5

That is the top of an AH-64D longbow apache. It has been reduced down to a silhouette. The top part that looks like a robots head is the radar, and then below are the blades and head assembly. The guy I made it for will recognize it immediately as he spends 40 hours a week looking at them the same as I do.


#6

easy to see now that you point it out.


#7

Nice job! (That’s going to be harder to solve as an engrave than a photo though…if they like a challenge, I’d leave it just like that!) :grinning:


#8

He says he likes 500+ puzzles, we’ll see how he does with 63 pieces and limited clues? :smile:

Like I said, just my first experiment, next one will be a color photo. If I can get those down to where they look real good…


#9

If you have a pigment ink printer DASS transfers look really good on wood. The film is a bit spendy since the pretty much have the market cornered.

Inkaid also offers similar products at a slightly better price.


#10

That looks to have huge potential! I think I’ll take baby steps and try putting a photo on photo paper and adhering it next but that transfer film looks wonderful for a more advanced technique.


#11

Puzzles will be great to give as gifts. Hoping photos will adhere and cut well.


#12

There are other ways to do transfers but I think the Supersauce method would give the best results in this instance. It isn’t too difficult but does take some practice to get a perfect transfer.

I’ve only done five so far but I was combining it with some other alt-process techniques so I wasn’t looking for perfect. :wink:


#13

Not sure if it works out to be cheaper, but your comments make it sound like so:

No need to get fancy for photo transfer


#14

Yes, that is another method. Two things to note about it:

• It only works with a laser printed photo, inkjets need not apply.

• Be prepared to spend a lot of time rubbing the back of the paper off the mage.

I’ve not used this method but have seen it used and it does give satisfactory results. Again, practice required to get a perfect image. :slight_smile:


#15

I just played with the small puzzle file that was included in the :glowforge: GUI. Here are a few examples. My 14 year old when he was a puppy and a friend’s son (he gave me permission to post).

I used weatherproof polyester labels that I got here.
https://www.onlinelabels.com/products/OL177LP.htm?src=mp-5&sr=1060605439

They are laser printer only, but print up really nicely and adhere well. I have used them for full color car window decals and have had some that are going strong after 9 months. Draftboard is a great material for this. Super smooth and cuts well. I removed the masking on the board and set it aside, then applied the print and reapplied the mask. Burnish it down well. It won’t affect the print. My first try wasn’t stuck down well enough and peeled up when cut. My first little flare up and quick job abort.

The cost is about $0.50 per letter sized sheet, so not too bad for puzzle toys.


Laser on Game Pieces
#16

This is awesome. Thanks for experimenting for the rest of us!

Quick question: what do you use to stick the photo down to the draftboard ?


#17

This is a really cool procedure. I’ll bet it could be used in other ways, too. Thanks for sharing it!


#18

That is great to know…I get a lot of stuff from Online Labels. (They have some great waterproof labels for labeling spice jars that have to go into the fridge.) :grinning:


#19

These are adhesive labels. I believe the bond improves over time.


#20

I guess I’m confused. I thought the labels were for putting the shiny surface on the photo. Because to get the photo to stick to the draftboard, don’t you need a double-stick type of surface?