Parts coming out of fixture/jig……Test Run?


#11

It only helps briefly. My DNA report shed some light into why I can drink coffee at bedtime without losing sleep. I’m an ultrarapid metabolizer of caffeine (CYP1A2 enzyme), so I really just get a brief window of nonfuzzy brain function, and then the brain fog descends again.

At least one of the 3 genotypes involved was homozygous, meaning you’d have it too, so there’s a good chance you burn through it as quickly as I do. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


#12

Wow, I hadn’t heard of that! What are the chances they’ve managed to make it sustained-release, rather than releasing all at once like the flavor in gum seems to do?


#13

What you need to avoid hitting your work…


I took those pictures with my phone. You can see from this angle how far below it is from the horizontal laser plate you can see. If you have a cell phone camera you can check these things live (before closong the lid and starting the laser of course :roll_eyes:)


#14


#15

Holy smokes, these threads derail fast!
I’m trying to dream up a fixture, basically a durable, cheap, safe, easy-to-make replacement crumbtray. I’ll see if I can’t let you know what I come up with.


#16

Chuckle! Don’t let that slow you down, the group multitasks very efficiently. Don’t want to inhibit the crumb tray redesign on your part, but there are tutorials and previously created strategies for dealing with cutting without the crumb tray that might save you some time:

And some freebies for support in the Free Files section:


#17

One of my jigs for parts 1.5" tall. A flat part just requires spacers. Some shapes require.a little thought.


You can do it.


#18

Genius.


#19

You know, you ought to sell those plans in the Catalog one of these days…that’s my favorite jig setup to date…could easily make different height spacers out of the legs to make it a Tray Table.
(Unofficial new term that I hope catches on.) :sunglasses:


#20

Thanks for the info. I’ll have a look at it. Right now, I’ve got some scrap MDF, and some old moulding that’s almost exactly the right thickness. Cut cut cut, dowel rods to lock it in place (just like the original), bam. I’ll post a pic once it’s finished.


#21

How do you do your initial alignment after installing the jig?


#22

I have used jigs that butted up against the door for repeatability, but in this case I just visually aligned the items. The overall height is 0.35" above where the crumb tray would have been. So I entered 0.35" as the material height.

Also have been known to run a position test on a replica piece of scrap MDF positioned in the slots before doing many multiples. Once it’s dialed in it doesn’t move.


#23

I’ve wondered about the repeatability of absolute positioning… A taped grid on the GF floor, for example, would let you place the jig precisely each time.


#24

Used a sharpie to mark positions.


#25

I use a pencil…easier to erase. :slightly_smiling_face:


#26

could also use gaffer’s tape, since that’s literally one of the jobs it was designed for. :slight_smile:


#27

And if the world were truly a stage then I’d be fine with that precision. The wife has a Theater degree. Hitting marks and set design were her life. I learned to hate gaffer’s tape.


#28

hah, as a musician, gaffer’s tape is lifeblood for setting up on stage. so many cables to trip over if they’re not taped down… i use it for lots of GF stuff, like testing to see if parts cut through (although still gorilla for cleaning out detailed masking).


#29

I play acoustic on stage. Folks in the back weren’t listening anyway.


#30

we always went by the philosophy of “how would the ramones cover this song?”