XY home position

qa

#1

Question for the GF team.

@dan, will there be a physical XY zero / home position visible on the bed? Will there be a raised square guide to tuck material into?

I like the image dragging / camera feature a lot but I can’t imagine we’d have to do a manual graphic design placement via the cameras for every instance of a repeated cut pattern for different sheets / jobs. For repeat jobs we’d like a place-press-go workflow! How would it work?

Thanks.


Centering an engrave or cut
Feature request: Absolute positioning - CNC Mill style
Double sided cut
Cut artwork exactly at origin?
The Tested crew discusses the Glowforge delay
#2

So can someone take a pic of the bed and score some hexagons (or whatever they are) on one side of a piece of wood and an inside corner on the other?


#3

That’s a good idea! The hexagons of my Trotec cutting tray are quite imperfect, so you might have to “scan” the actual table in order to do that.


#4

From Dan’s answer to your question a couple of weeks ago, there doesn’t appear to be a physical or visual home/origin:

That being said, creating your own positioning jig should be really simple. Here are a few options…

  • Using a set of welding magnets (being very careful not to damage your grid)
  • Using a set of 1-2-3 Milling Blocks (depending on the height of your material – don’t let the head impact these)
  • Using your Glowforge to cut a jig out of cardboard, acrylic, plywood, whatever

Hope this helps… :grinning:

Btw, the GF staff other than Dan doesn’t routinely answer questions on the forums, but the community at large has an amazing body of knowledge that you may find handy. Expressing a desire to have GF staffer answer your question isn’t typically effective…


#5

Im planning on cutting a piece of acrylic or delrin shoved into the corner with the x/y limits. Then ill put some magnets down on the edge in place to hold position, and cut holes in the corner piece for magnets and engrave rulers. vertical guides for taller objects and the ability to clamp down with it will also be nice. I use a similar setup in my chinese laser


#6

We’ll have to see how solid the honeycomb position is.


#7

aye. might have to connect it to something else … I didnt think to check tray wobble at the maker faire


#8

I never imagined there wouldn’t be a ruled square to line materials to. If there isn’t, that’s a pretty big oversight IMO.

I mean… As asked, how else would you do multiples? Sure, make a jig. But it just seems to me like a ruled square is a given.


#9

It seems like they chose to not have ruled beams on any of the edges. I mean to say that it was a conscious decision more than an oversight.

Here’s a thread about that from late last year that prolly has some more info (sorry, I only found it, I didn’t reread it)…

It seems like this has come up several times, and Dan has suggested just making some if you need some. A reasonable solution, IMO, though I do like the precision offered by a factory-made part.
Here’s an example of making them being suggested…


#10

Thanks for that info. I definitely agree. Making my own could possibly take the “precision” out of something that’s specifically supposed to be laser-precise.


#11

I may have to find it again, but I think dan said somewhere that the rulers are in the software instead of on the bed itself?


#12

That’d be silly. Extremely imprecise. I can’t think of a value to that. Kinda has to be physical to work well. Guess I really will have to make one.


#13

I have some pretty serious concerns about alignment and accuracy without any rulers. Relying entirely on the camera that’s already been shown to be imprecise is concerning. Dan did say elsewhere that while there are no rulers there are sidebar stops. I plan to machine a 1/4in aluminum index insert and figuring out how to lock it to the bed. That still requires some kind of manual alignment/positions/origin manipulation in the software. One more GF anxiety to deal with…


#14

And should the cameras malfunction, what is the fix?


#15

I don’t think it’s fair or productive to speculate about repairs prior to the device even being produced. Probably safe to presume the thing will last for x years and that there will be a means of having the unit repaired should it break.


#16

Metal rules in 12-in and 24-in sizes are available that could be used if you’d rather put your energy toward more unique projects.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-1216-12-Inch-Stainless/dp/B00004T7SR/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478708495&sr=1-14&keywords=rules+12

https://www.amazon.com/PEC-Replacement-Machinist-Combination-7192-024/dp/B00RH1G0O0/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478708583&sr=1-9&keywords=rules+24

Are two examples, but Amazon has dozens, probably hundreds of others. Might be tricky to find ones that are fairly narrow so that don’t encroach on laser-able work space. The above two are over 1-in wide, I think.


#17

Sure. But a ruler isn’t the answer. Need a (carpenter’s) square. Also available. But fixing it perfectly to the tray could prove difficult depending on the spacing within the case. Would really have to wait until I get the unit to make any decision on design specs for the square.


#18

I’m not sure what’s inaccurate about making one. If the edges aren’t parallel and perpendicular respectively coming from an SVG, then we’ve got more problems than just the lack of rulers/stops.


#19

Okay, I think I’m starting to track in on this conversation. Here’s my question, probably just missed it being discussed at some point, but is it even possible to plug in an origin point for a cut outside of the toted visual alignment method? I know on current lasers origin points are the key to where the laser fires and interprets its movement, but the idea I’ve walked away with is that is now handled completely by the camera system and is relative to each cut. If that is the case then would having a ruled guide for placing material on the bed to be cut be of any actual value? – total noob with CNC machines, so be nice :slight_smile:


#20

To me the value would be lining up something once, forging it, then sliding in the next piece of material to the same exact spot, and one-touch forging the next, wash, rinse, repeat until I’ve produced as many as I want.

(And, yes… When I get my machine I will officially call myself a forger.)